Horizontally-set stones offer a subtle, yet modern twist on classic designs.
East-west set diamond rings are having a moment. While millennial consumers and trend-savvy buyers are seeking less conventional engagement-ring choices, they are also looking to communicate an appreciation of elevated design principles. This fresh perspective rejects carat weight as the most important factor in diamond-ring buying, instead making style statements with less popular cuts.
Elongated cuts — particularly emerald, oval, marquise and baguette — are the most visually effective for horizontally set diamonds. Jemma Wynne is a New York-based jewelry brand that embraces this unconventional setting. Ranging from classic to more edgy, her designs maintain wearability.
For Kentucky-bred, Brooklyn-based Shahla Karimi, creating the Mid Century collection meant designing a series of east-west set rings. “My eye gravitates towards minimal yet theatrical settings. A surprise element like flipping the stone east-west or tilting it to side 90 degrees can make something traditional look modern.”
Thinking big
Conversely, New Yorker Brent Neale’s signature is the gypsy ring, many of which incorporate high-carat diamonds set east-west, which maximize her androgynous, retro interpretation of this trend.
Another jeweler who is known for her voluminous designs is Ana Khouri. The Gemological Institute of Technology (GIA)- and Parsons-trained designer’s take on east-west rings employs subtly oval-cut — almost round — diamonds, set balanced atop of broad, deep bands.
Founded by sisters Nicole and Kim Carosella, Sorellina is another brand that incorporates this postmodern aesthetic — juxtaposing elements reminiscent of vintage jewels, such as blackened-gold details, with this modern stone-setting trend.
Lateral moves
This setting style is a modern spin on classic diamond-ring design, but practically speaking, a stone set east-west can be more flattering for larger fingers, and serves to draw the eye laterally across the hand. A twist on the common solitaire affords the wearer a safe level of conformity in their fine-jewelry choices — it’s enough of a design element to hint at a unique sense of personal style demonstrated by selecting a niche designer, without being overtly different.
Not only for contemporary engagement rings, this trend also appeals to self-purchasing women who are looking to enjoy the beauty, luxury and status of diamond jewelry without the traditional romantic connotations. The rising popularity of east-west settings reflects a growing desire for styles that signify individuality, and a disregard for conforming to norms.
Main image: Ana Khouri Phillipa Ring with oval diamond and diamond pave band in yellow gold.
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