Withdrawing the Claw

Alternative settings can make gems dazzle.

When it comes to stone settings, the claw is the undisputed king. But it is by no means the only option, and cutting out those predictable prongs can lead to some beautifully alternative designs. Annular bezel or hand-hewn rubover settings cup stones securely in place, offering the gems extra protection against dirt and grease while creating the illusion of a larger carat.

Diamonds drilled with tiny holes, meanwhile, can be strung on delicate chains, allowing them to dance and dazzle freely. Other techniques, such as casting stones directly into molten metal or using seemingly gravity-defying tension settings, can give jewels serious character through the element of surprise. With such creative options out there, perhaps it’s time to get your claws out.