London Luxury: Masterpiece Art Fair

Nature-influenced contemporary pieces and signed mid-20th-century jewels sparkled at the Masterpiece Art Fair.

Key jewelry-design trends at Masterpiece London, the UK’s most luxurious art and antiques fair, included nature-inspired pieces and art jewelry featuring exotic, non-precious natural materials. Other notable styles were extraordinary gems and 1950s to 1970s signed pieces.

The ninth edition of Masterpiece London Art Fair, which attracted shoppers of rare art, high jewelry and period furnishings, ran from June 28 on July 4 on the grounds of the historic Royal Hospital Chelsea in southwest London.

Opulent gems

Bond Street jeweler Moussaieff Jewellers, exhibiting at Masterpiece for the first time, presented pieces featuring a remarkable array of rare untreated gemstones. Among these jewels were a 57.21-carat Mozambican Paraiba tourmaline surrounded by emeralds and diamonds; the Royal Blue, a 49.70-carat, deep blue Burma sapphire; and jewelry set with sapphires in a myriad of color combinations. On-trend pieces included ear climbers featuring Paraiba tourmalines and pink diamonds.

Moussaieff Jewellers. Brooch with 57.21ct Paraiba tourmaline, 26cts of emeralds and 2.88cts of diamond, set in platinum.

Moussaieff Jewellers. Bangle with 28.37ct emerald, 23.21ct emerald, 19.76cts of emerald beads, 1ct of Paraiba Tourmaline and 17.88cts of diamonds.

Chatila 18-karat white gold earrings set with two Colombian emeralds of 16.32 carats and 15.30 carats, two Ascher-cut diamonds, and diamonds totaling 18.41carats.

Unusual materials

Rome-based art jeweler Fabio Salini, also a first-time participant at Masterpiece, offered gold jewelry set with a Brazilian plant, capim dourado, or golden grass, and used bamboo in precious pieces, highlighting nature’s fragility. “These items represent a dialogue between the natural elements and jewelry,” Salini said. “Which is more precious?” He also showcased a necklace made from seashells and coral.

Lost splendor earrings in capim dourado, white gold and 11.35 carats of white diamonds from the Dangerous Luxury collection produced by Fabio Salini in collaboration with the Campana brothers.

Fabio Salini. Venus necklace in coral, pink gold, shells, silk cord and 6.77 carats of rubies from the Dangerous Luxury collection produced by Fabio Salini in collaboration with the Campana brothers.

To catch a thief bracelet in bamboo, pink gold and 32.61 carats of brown diamonds from the Dangerous Luxury collection produced by Fabio Salini in collaboration with the Campana brothers.

Tributes to nature

Exhibitors Cindy Chao, Fabio Salini, Moussaieff Jewellers and Chatila celebrated nature. Cindy Chao’s Fish Brooch featured a fish made from emerald and white diamonds, as well as dragonflies and butterflies, while Moussaieff Jewellers’ butterfly — set with Australian fire opal and a variety of colored gems — looked ready to lift off. The ocean was a popular theme: Fabio Salini used coral and diamonds in earrings inspired by the sea.

1950s-70s signed pieces

Among the estate jewelry, 1950s to 1970s signed pieces were very popular among millennial visitors, said Thierry Bamps of Monaco-based exhibitor Veronique Bamps. “This period is very fashion-led and wearable,” he explained.

Chunky Cartier and Boivin gold jewelry from the 1950s and 1960s was extremely collectable.

Representing earlier periods, the best examples of Belle Epoque, Art Deco and Art Nouveau jewelry are highly sought after, Bamps said.

Wartski showcased rare Art Nouveau pieces by Rene Lalique and Faberge.

More recent jewels included a pair of earrings by JAR, dated 1995, featuring garnet and tourmaline, which were standout items at Masterpiece.

Main image: Chatila sapphire bracelet set with natural Burmese sapphires weighing 131.26 carats with 15.37 carats of sapphire carved leaves, 16.68 carats of carved emerald and cabochon emeralds, and 4.52 carats of diamonds.