Alternative materials, gender-fluid designs and uncut gems will be the stars of upcoming seasons.
The pandemic will lead jewelry designers to adopt a slower, more painstaking attitude toward their work, says forecaster and creative director Paola De Luca, who launched the Trendbook 2022+.
De Luca and her creative team at research observatory Trendvision presented the Trendbook 2022+ at the September VicenzaOro International Community Event (VOICE) show in Italy, the first physical trade event since the onset of Covid-19.
The pandemic has given designers more time to work on the intricate details of their pieces and to hone their use of technology, stones and other materials.
“The idea of ‘slow design’ is very much on-trend these seasons,” De Luca says.
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The key forecasts of the Trendbook 2022+ centered on “Optiminimal” — “mixing and matching” of minimal designs with alternative materials, such as wood, ceramics, resins and plastics, to optimize jewelry design — and “Siloless” — gender-fluid jewelry. Men, notably Generation Z and millennial consumers, are turning to diamond and pearl jewelry, just as wealthy men did during the Renaissance and in the ancient cultures of India and China.
Another category that is expected to gain traction in the coming years is “Historical Crossover.” This trend will see a contemporary reinterpretation of ancient techniques in gem and cameo carving, metalsmithing, filigree, granulations, and enameling, De Luca notes.
Charms and pendants are forecast to be best sellers as they tell the story of the wearer. Small earrings sold individually rather than as matching sets, which can be styled by the consumer, will also grow in popularity.
Minerals and rocks left uncut, with inclusions, will be treasures of upcoming seasons as consumers learn to appreciate imperfection in design.
Creating connections
De Luca expects increasing demand for high-value and estate jewelry items, reflecting consumers’ desire to own rare and beautiful pieces with a recognized value.
“There is also a search for alternative, affordable jewelry that can help the consumer tell their own story,” she says. “They are collectible pieces that can be mixed and matched, in precious and non-precious materials.”
Technology has paved the way for new alloys and ceramic treatments, creating playful jewels that appeal to younger audiences, according to De Luca. Neon and bright colors are emerging strongly.
Telling the story of a piece of jewelry will become critically important for jewelry brands in the next seasons due to rising competition from independent designers who use digital tools such as Instagram to convey messages, she adds.
Main image: Nikos Koulis Feelings earrings in gold and diamonds.
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