New twists on this classic style staple are keeping it as relevant as ever.

Hoops are an evergreen fashion statement — just ask the Minoans. Yet with each season comes some new twist in tastes, and jewels must adapt to stay relevant. With hoop earrings back in style, the question is: How do you make a design that has been around since the Bronze Age feel fresh for today?

Let’s start with position. Traditionally, hoops have stayed true to their name, looping through the lobe, but who says that needs to remain the case? Many modern versions are forgoing such constrictive navigation in favor of a more outward-facing position thanks to the addition of a perpendicular ear post. This means onlookers get a full view of the design, and the 90-degree turn makes for a larger, more dramatic look.

New materials can be another way to innovate. While classic gold hoops will always be a faithful friend, hoops crafted from fossilized wood, smothered in bright enamel, or cradling an oversized gemstone are companions you’ll want to take out to dinner.

And of course, there’s shape. Most expect a somewhat circular form, which has metaphorical significance ranging from fertility to matrimonial fealty.

But as with just about everything else in 2020, adherence to precedent has evaporated. Squiggly lines, straight edges, lopsided drops, hoops within hoops — nothing is sacrosanct. As lockdown life continues to meld the familiar and the strange, it is little wonder we find ourselves craving these quirky hoops.

Jemma Wynne. Prive earrings in 18-karat gold with rhodium-blackened inner hoops, featuring diamonds and freshwater pearls.
Jemma Wynne Prive earrings in 18-karat gold with rhodium-blackened inner hoops, featuring diamonds and freshwater pearls.
Melis Goral Deep Space earrings with malachite, onyx and diamonds in 14-karat gold.
Melis Goral Deep Space earrings with malachite, onyx and diamonds in 14-karat gold.
Retrouvaí hoop earrings in 14-karat gold with hand-cut petrified wood inlay.
Retrouvaí hoop earrings in 14-karat gold with hand-cut petrified wood inlay.
Suzanne Kalan Inlay hoops in 18-karat gold with white diamonds and colored sapphires in a mix of cuts.
Suzanne Kalan Inlay hoops in 18-karat gold with white diamonds and colored sapphires in a mix of cuts.
Liv Luttrell Twist earrings in 18-karat gold, hand-engraved in the Florentine style to give a silken finish, with champagne and cognac diamonds along the edges.
Liv Luttrell Twist earrings in 18-karat gold, hand-engraved in the Florentine style to give a silken finish, with champagne and cognac diamonds along the edges.
Harwell Godfrey Talisman Shield 18-karat gold hoops with diamonds, amethysts, sapphires, topazes and tsavorites.

Harwell Godfrey Talisman Shield 18-karat gold hoops with diamonds, amethysts, sapphires, topazes and tsavorites.
Noor Shamma Luz U-hoop earrings in 18-karat gold with a hidden hinge for easy wear.
Noor Shamma Luz U-hoop earrings in 18-karat gold with a hidden hinge for easy wear.

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