The house of Cartier created some of the most iconic jewels of the 20th century. In this new episode, Francesca Cartier Brickell, author of best-seller The Cartiers, talks to Rapaport Editor in Chief Sonia Esther Soltani about what made the French brand’s pioneering style so timeless.

Francesca Cartier Brickell.
Francesca Cartier Brickell.

Cartier Brickell, the great-granddaughter of Jacques Cartier, shares lively stories of how her ancestor traveled to India and brought back gemstones for the maison’s famous tutti frutti jewels, which adorned the likes of fashion trendsetters Daisy Fellows and Lady Mountbatten.

The author also offers insights into the creative process and craftsmanship behind the legendary Cartier watches, clocks and jewels that are setting records at auction houses and remaining firm favorites with collectors. She also shares touching personal anecdotes about her grandfather Jean-Jacques’s involvement in the London branch and what it took to be a Cartier designer.

Cartier tutti frutti designs and brooches. Courtesy: Francesca Cartier Brickell.
Cartier tutti frutti designs and brooches. Image: Francesca Cartier Brickell.
Daisy Fellowes wearing her Cartier tutti frutti necklace. Image: Sotheby's.
Daisy Fellowes wearing her Cartier tutti frutti necklace. Image: Sotheby’s.

Although she was born after the business was sold to outsiders, Cartier Brickell spent 10 years researching her family history and discovering more about the jeweler’s creations.

“I spoke to lots of gem experts and dealers, and the kind of common point of what they said to me was, ‘Cartier is so distinct. You can tell a Cartier piece, it just stands out.’ What was that? How can you tell? Because they’re all so different,” she says.

The maison’s remarkable jewels are indeed diverse: diamond and platinum garland styles during the Belle Epoque, boldly colorful tutti frutti items, tiaras, watches, clocks, and maharajah turban ornaments. But all of them reflect a clear vision and style.

Craftsmanship and originality are what make a Cartier jewel stand out, Cartier Brickell states. “It all boils down to this — this motto that the Cartier brothers had, which was: ‘Never copy, only create.’ And the idea [was] that they should take inspiration from everywhere except from existing jewelry.”

To listen to the Jewelry Connoisseur Podcast, click below.

Main image: The Cartiers by Francesca Cartier Brickell; Francesca Cartier Brickell.

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