The long reign of Queen Victoria (1837 to 1901) saw many unprecedented developments in the technological and artistic spheres. An enthusiastic collector of jewelry in her youth, the queen and her court were trendsetters whose every new jewel was keenly observed by the nascent mainstream press.
In this new episode, Sarah Duncan, a London-based jewelry historian specializing in the late Georgian era to the late 20th-century period and head of the jewelry department at Chiswick Auctions, highlights some of the most intriguing jewels of the Victorian age, placing them in their cultural and historical context.
The gold rush and the discovery of new mines, including the diamond sources in South Africa, opened new opportunities for jewelers. “You start seeing a lot more raw materials enter the market and all of a sudden jewelry changes forever,” notes Duncan.
Unusual materials such as hair, animal teeth and stuffed birds also featured in jewels of the time. Today’s collectors might be more attracted to the timeless motifs of the snakes and stars, as well as the affordability of Victorian jewels. “I think one of the most important things about Victorian jewelry for people who are interested in antique jewelry is that it’s very all encompassing. Price points for Victorian jewelry can start very low, maybe not even £100 [$125] sometimes,” says Duncan.
“You can start a collection with simple examples and build it up to the more elaborate and beautiful and rare items…. There’s so many themes, styles and price points that make [Victorian jewelry] very accessible,” she adds.
To listen to the Jewelry Connoisseur Podcast, click below.
Main image: Sarah Duncan; three diamond star brooches from c.1880, c.1890, late 19th century/early 20th century, sold at Chiswick Auctions on March 3, 2020.
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