The passion of these four independent designers for high-karat gold has elevated their collections to exclusive one-of-a-kind pieces that mix intriguing character and historical references with specialized techniques.
High-karat gold and enchanting, unique gemstones lend themselves to one-of-a-kind designs. Although the term ‘one-of-a-kind’ has become a buzzword, often overused in the jewelry market today, it’s entirely appropriate for the collectible jewels being created by a select group of independent and emerging bench jewelers learning new ways to work with gold. Using old-world techniques, they are designing pieces that resonate with the modern woman.
What makes these jewelers’ pieces so desirable is their distinctive and intricate details and the way in which they are constructed. These designers are attracted to the sensuality and malleability of high-karat gold, the way it wears with age and its tactile nuances. They are equally mesmerized by gemstones and will wait until they find the most magical way to feature them in their pieces.
Embracing antiquity: Loren Nicole
Loren N Teetelli of Loren Nicole takes inspiration from antiquity. As an archeologist turned jewelry designer, her influences range from ancient Egyptian to the Vikings — the cultural aspects, communication and language, architecture, ornamental elements and, of course, the jewelry. Since launching her collection in 2016, she has continued to develop a stronger understanding of how to interpret ancient inspiration into her modern aesthetic.
“I explore ancient jewelry in an unexpectedly contemporary way. It is abstracted and clean, with all old-world textures that are refined but never delicate or fussy,” she says. Working out of her studio in California, she has challenged herself to learn techniques such as granulation, chasing, repoussé and filigree. Her work is centered around storytelling and connecting people with history.
“Two years ago, I released the Nebu collection which was based on Ancient Egyptian inspiration and I have just released the Viking collection. Creating Nebu made me more comfortable with working on a larger scale. With the Viking collection, I have evolved into larger-scale pieces that are also more abstract. I am less literal in my approach with the new collection and believe I have become a better jeweler, more confident with my interpretations and honing my skills,” she explains.
The Viking Trove collection encompasses 50 pieces “that evoke the feeling of discovering a burial site, with stylistic influences and motifs from around the world.” She elaborates, “I wanted to be able to show the threads of history.”
One of the most awe-inspiring items in the collection is the 22-karat gold Longship, which is a decorative object that can be deconstructed and transformed into different jewelry pieces. The woven sail becomes a bracelet, the shields become earrings and the rock crystal oars can be worn, as can the dragon stickpin formed from the figurehead. Teetelli says, “It occurred to me that I could make a ship that comes apart and is wearable and functions as jewelry.”
Symbols of self-expression: Dale Hernsdorf
From amulet-inspired pieces meant to be worn for happiness and good health to the Dagger collection that is powerful yet feminine and Celestial Orbs that recall the stars in the evening sky, Dale Hernsdorf’s creations are filled with symbolism. They’re also rich with vibrant, handpicked ethically sourced gemstones. She designs in recycled gold and is most inspired by the raw materials — the sensuality and warmth of the gold and the exceptional beauty of the gems.
Although Hernsdorf had different careers before striking out in the jewelry world, all it took was one metalsmithing class to realize her love for the craft. She was mentored by a master goldsmith who taught her the techniques, which she practiced until she mastered them herself, continuing to deepen her knowledge and love of jewelry as an art form. The designer’s gold is alloyed by hand and every link of chain, bezel and details are wrought by hand in her Los Angeles studio. She has since taught her daughter, Annie Saperstein, and the two now work together.
Her collections are expressive and meaningful — often inspired by the past, but with an irreverent take. “What we wear is a signifier of who we see ourselves to be. When I meet someone, I notice their shoes, the cut of their clothes, and the jewelry they wear. And always, the jewelry is the most significant choice of all,” says Hernsdorf. “It’s very important to me that you can buy into different pieces in my body of work — you can start with a handmade chain, add a charm and then move on to a gorget necklace or a statement warrior ring. For me it’s the intersection between the jewels I create and the person who wears them that evokes the feeling of originality, as no two people will look the same in my jewels and no two pieces I design can ever be the exact same.”
Hernsdorf is continually evolving and most recently added the Celestial Orb pieces to the collection, which are lockets set with strategically placed gemstones reminiscent of different celestial bodies. They are available in different metal and gemstone combinations and completely handmade from the hinge to the settings.
Transformative power: Linda Hoj
Linda Googe launched her jewelry label Linda Hoj four years ago, balancing the intricate techniques of ancient jewelry making with an artist’s eye and an instinctive understanding of what modern women want to wear. “Designing one-of-a-kind pieces requires a delicate equation between beauty, wearability and durability,” says Googe. “This means I am always actively creating and solving problems.”
She adds, “Many times, the jewelry I am making will coincide with the new techniques I have learned. Most of my studies have centered around the ancient Etruscan techniques of fusing, granulation, repoussé and chain making. I like to play with the sizes of the elements to see how that changes the feeling of the pieces I create.”
Googe’s pieces reveal her interest in the transformative power of jewelry. They are strong yet feminine, elegant yet organic and sophisticated yet soulful. “I believe that jewelry should give the wearer the power to choose what they want to project about themselves.” she explains.
Currently the Connecticut-based designer is working with larger granules in many of her pieces. But her inspiration is always derived from the materials and details that capture her attention, whether it be a special gemstone or the way in which different textures and elements change the feeling and look of the gold. Her most recent pieces range from naturalistic to architectural to regal.
“Working in one-of-a-kind pieces affords me the ability to try out different styles and to experiment without getting locked into a formal collection. Each piece stands on its own and can appeal to various aspects of the wearer’s personality,” she says.
Uniquely sculptural: Margery Hirschey
Margery Hirschey launched her company in 2008. In the beginning her pieces revolved around the gemstones — boulder opals and exclusively cut stones of different colors, in 22-karat gold handmade settings with a hammered-edge finish. Hirschey’s color combinations either featured daring contrasts or tonal combinations in double drop and linear earrings, the most alluring of which were mismatched. Rings were irregularly shaped and often went from east to west in styles. Everything about the collection spoke to Hirschey’s sense of color and proportion.
When colored gemstones took over the market, Hirschey notes “ a lot of designers began to create similar pieces and I needed something that was totally different to satisfy my yearning to create jewels that are unexpected.” She continues, “When I create a one-of-a-kind jewel, I think of the piece as a small sculpture, as a work of art. I lay out the components on a board and move them around until it feels right. I usually photograph it at different stages to ensure I can see the earlier iterations. Once I’m finally happy with the design, I start the process of creating the piece.
“When you are designing something that you hope will be a very special piece, every section needs to be perfect, which means spending a lot of time constructing each part. You have to get into a kind of zen feeling about it. The process becomes as important as the finished product.”
Working in Colorado, the jeweler decided on a new direction after being inspired by a photo of a mobile that featured extraordinary concentric arches. The first design in this series were her Double Arch earrings and her imagination took off from there. As the collection evolved, it was then imbued with a nod to Bauhaus and “the ability to make order from chaos.” This collection exudes the asymmetry of simple shapes, which are constructed in a variety of whimsical and sophisticated arrangements.
Main image: Loren Nicole Longship transformable jewel in 22-karat gold with rock crystal, from the Viking Trove collection.
Comments are closed.