Inspired by architecture, the designer behind Louiza Jewellery is embracing unconventional materials to create covetable designs ‘with soul.’
Unusual materials, unconventional gemstones, and dynamic design are the main influences for Louiza Leclercq’s jewelry designs, which she describes as wearable art. The materials include titanium and carbon fiber, while the pieces often feature tanzanite.
Leclercq, who was born in Russia and has Armenian heritage, traveled the world while working in finance. When she landed in New York, she discovered a new passion. “[The architecture] amazed me as a young woman, because it is as diverse and powerful as the city itself,” she recalls.
Later, in Hong Kong, she met a jeweler selling Colombian emeralds, which fascinated her, and she decided to become a gemologist, studying at the Gemmological Association of Great Britain. These experiences provided the solid knowledge she needed for her jewelry brand, Louiza Jewellery.
Your creations are designed in France and made in Italy. How did you choose those places?
My husband is French, and although we have lived in many places around the world, the time had come to call one place home, and we therefore decided to settle down in Paris. I work with an Italian jewelry designer and Italy has always been a hub for the jewelry industry, so it was very easy to decide to produce my collections in Italy. Italian craftsmen are well known for their skills, making high-quality items.
Since your designs are contemporary, are you also inspired by other periods of jewelry history?
Of course! My favorite period in architecture and jewelry design is the Art Deco period, because it uses a lot of sleek geometric forms and rich materials. Art Deco art is distinctive in its attention to balance and symmetry, which is why I am so attracted to it.
Your pieces mix unconventional gemstones and materials. How do you choose and source them?
I am a certified gemologist, so it is very important for me to hand-pick every gemstone. Each gemstone carries a story, and no two gemstones are alike. I do believe gemstones have a “soul,” and I am against any sort of treatments. I therefore work with trusted gemstone dealers who provide information about gemstone traceability. They visit mines and have special relationships with the cutters to achieve a transparency in the gem trade.
Is there any gemstone that you want to incorporate in your upcoming collections?
I am preparing a new collection that will be in matte rose gold and white diamonds. There are also a few new projects for one-of-a-kind pieces that are under way. At the moment, I am fascinated with spessartite garnets. They are so vibrant and colorful, so you will be able to see them in my new pieces very soon.
Who do you think your customers are? Do you have a target in mind?
My designs are made by women for women. Women well-traveled, who want to have something different and are not afraid to experiment with their personal style. Women who want bold and powerful designs that make them stand out.
In custom-designed pieces, how do you work to combine your personal style with customers’ desires?
I sit down and have a conversation with the client, through which I find out their preferences such as which colors they like, etc., but most importantly, I like to ask about their personal stories, which I later try to incorporate in the design. For example, I had a client who was fond of a Chinese character representing her family name. We simplified this character and made it as a piece of a design the way that no one would even think that it is a family name. I love making designs personal, so our clients feel that this piece of jewelry was made with love and care, with their special story and a hidden meaning that only they know about.
What advice would you give to someone starting off in the industry?
Everyone has their own path. When I started, I knew no one in the industry, but I was blessed to meet wonderful people who helped me to start out right. That is why it is very important to pay special attention to who you work with [and to] surround yourself with trustworthy people. Be kind to them and they will be kind to you. And…don’t be afraid of anything.
Main image: Louiza Leclercq, designer. Photo: Louiza Jewellery.
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