On the Move - Jewelry Connoisseur

Diamonds that slide, tumble and dance bring designs playfully to life.

The raison d’etre of the diamond setter is to ensure stones remain locked firmly in place. Yet a playful new spirit in jewelry design is increasingly calling out for the exact opposite: It demands that diamonds be set free.

Chopard pioneered this concept over 40 years ago with its Happy Diamonds range, and Caroline Scheufele, the brand’s co-president and artistic director, has continued the theme. Messika followed up a decade ago with its hugely popular Move collection, swapping Chopard’s sapphire glass entrapments for ready-to-roll rail tracks.

Whether they’re sliding, swinging, or quivering on articulated settings, diamonds that can dance and dazzle are utterly captivating.

Moritz Glik has trapped an array of tumbling white diamonds and emeralds within sapphire glass in these 18-karat yellow-gold and black enamel earrings

This 18-karat rose-gold Swinging Diamonds ring by Marie Mas can be flipped to show a pair of either marquise-cut diamonds or pink tourmalines.

Half a carat of loose diamonds play within a sapphire dome on this 18-karat rose-gold and black ceramic Stars of Africa pendant by Royal Asscher.

One of the latest additions to Chopard’s iconic range is this Happy Snowflakes bangle in 18-karat white gold, with set diamonds that move freely inside transparent casings.

Messika has released delicate pavé-set versions of its signature Move designs, including this 18-karat yellow-gold and diamond ring.

Main image: The diamonds on this aptly named 18-karat yellow-gold Disco ring from Fernando Jorge’s Brilliant collection have been set for movement on articulated prongs.