Unisex bands sporting stones that sit flush with the metal’s surface are making a splash.
Statement-making, androgynous and almost exclusively composed of yellow gold, gypsy rings are hugely in fashion right now. The rings represent a new era of fine jewelry: Diamonds and gemstones are inset, low maintenance, and casual — appealing to those who eschew convention and tradition. This bombastic and voluminous style of ring celebrates the beauty of precious metal, while the often smooth, undecorated surface of the setting draws the eye to the details of the inset diamond or gem.
Gypsy rings are defined by their setting, where a stone sits or appears to sit flush with the surface of the metal. You’re likely to find large, excellently cut and exceptionally high-clarity diamonds in gypsy-set rings; due to the lack of light entering the stone’s pavilion, substantial gems with a large table facet suit this design best.
Bold and beautiful
This simple style is becoming the calling card of a new generation of jewelry designers. Ming Lampson’s design signature favors incredible stones set within her large rings, many of which would be cumbersome if the stone were mounted in a conventional claw setting.
Hemmerle is renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship, particularly the seamless execution of its often-invisible gemstone settings. In the context of its statement rings, the Munich-based atelier creates hyper-modern gypsy-set pieces — though they are more likely to be found in aluminum or iron than the conventional yellow gold.
Prounis has also become popular for its own spin on the gypsy-set ring, which features large, usually included gemstones erupting beyond the surface of the setting — though these more ancient, talisman-like designs still maintain the simplicity of the gypsy setting.
Open to interpretation
London-based Hattie Rickards, who specializes in bespoke designs, finds many clients specifically seek her out for her interpretation of the gypsy ring. More and more brides are adopting practical attitudes to their wedding jewelry, and many of Hattie’s customers repurpose inherited stones, embracing the benefits of this more protective type of gem setting.
One New York-based designer, Brent Neale, has become synonymous with the explosion in popularity of this style. “The gypsy rings in my collection really appeal to me because everyone is different,” says Neale. “Each one is completely custom, depending on the stones that are chosen. Practically, I love the setting because it’s clean, classic and at the same time highlights and protects the gemstones.”
The timeless and androgynous aesthetics of gypsy rings mean they defy categorization, and help make them a steadfast investment in style.
Main image: Prounis 22-karat gold gypsy ring with diamond.
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