This Brazilian designer dissects famous works of art and reimagines them as sculptural fine jewelry.
A young jewelry brand hailing from Brazil, Larissa Moraes left her legal career to dedicate herself to jewelry-making in 2018 and has already won important accolades from the industry.
Earlier this year, the designer took first and second place at the MJSA Vision Awards in the Professional Excellence, 1-3 Business Years category, and received an Honorable Mention for Colored Stone Distinction. She was also rewarded with the Gold prize at the A’ Design Award & Competition for her Van Gogh earrings and nominated for Designer of the Year. “It made me more confident and validated that I am in the right place,” she says of these awards.
As a young jewelry brand what are the main challenges you are facing?
Naturally, as one could expect, 2020 has been a very challenging year for myself and my brand. Retailers around the globe are struggling and facing challenges with production, collection launches and more. Obviously with stores and boutiques closed and trade shows being cancelled, it’s been difficult to work with buyers face to face. However, this challenge has opened our eyes and we are now finding new ways to introduce our brand and build relationships.
The pandemic has been tough but I’m an optimist and grateful to be healthy, to be able to work and do something that I love. Even with the difficulties, I’ve still seen new doors open and had the opportunity to meet amazing people and continue to study, design and improve the brand. The re-opening of 2021 will be an adventure and I can’t wait to partake in it.
Do you feel there’s something typically Brazilian in your creations?
Brazilians love color. Colors are a striking feature of my jewelry and I love to mix bold shades and hues together. In Brazil, women love earrings and I have many of them in my collection. As this is an accessory I myself have been wearing since my younger years, I can attest to the fact that weight and comfort are two factors I pay close attention to with each design. I’m obsessed with large earrings and in terms of comfort, I knew creating ergonomic but light pieces was crucial for my line.
What part does your interest in artists such as Monet and Van Gogh play in your creative process?
Art can be viewed and translated in many other ways than as just a painting (noting I have so much respect for Monet and Van Gogh!), and I would say jewelry is a form of art-making. Each of my pieces has a sculptural feel. For any artist, finding similarity and an identity through each piece created is key 一 this is what I feel defines an artist. We use rare materials in production and consider how the pieces will look on the woman’s or man’s figure. I take inspiration from artists and hope to be inspiring to someone else.
The love of art and creating things is something you are born with. My mother is a painter and she introduced me and my sisters to the world of fine art at a young age. There are many ways to view art, in my opinion. While I am a designer, I have a sister who is a tattoo artist. We both consider the other an artist and why shouldn’t we?
Where and how is your jewelry made?
My work begins with a research process where I look up paintings or, for example, with my first collection, a canvas Van Gogh created. Once chosen, I look up what inspired the piece. I look at and research everything from the colors to the shapes, the hidden details and whatever you might not even think to look at. Then I conceptualize my idea, analyze the painting at hand and figure out how I can translate their art form into mine.
After a few drawing attempts, I reach my final sketch where I create a prototype using paper strings. I will try it on and get an idea of how the real piece might look on someone else. Once the final version is complete, I source the stones, the color and the shape from the initial painting and I continue the creation. I always draw then source, which I have been advised against but it works for me and the collection.
Once I connect with my goldsmith, we discuss texture, the design and connect on how we can create my vision. There are many prototypes created before the final product is produced and I’m okay with that; I know exactly what I am looking to achieve. My jewelry is all handmade, with the best raw materials, in Brasilia, the capital of Brazil.
What are you working on at the moment?
I have to keep some things a secret! However, I will say that I am working on a few different collections at the moment and each will be an authentic surprise. You can expect to find unusual gemstones and new structures; something new but aligned with the brand. I have some of the pieces sketched from what drew me to the inspiration. My only clues are: the Beatles, art nouveau (a fictitious meeting between Louis Tiffany and Victor Horta), Monet and Gustav Klimt, but I can’t say anything else right now…
Main image: Model wearing Van Gogh’s Rosebush necklace in 18-karat gold with pearls.
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