Bright as a Pin - Jewelry Connoisseur

Brooches big and small can sharpen up any look.

No longer reserved for the dowager, brooches are once again in vogue as part of a wider trend of personalization. So where is the next generation pinning its precious statements? Business suits can get an eccentric feminine uplift with a brooch on the lapel or over the top shirt button. For off-duty hours, smaller brooches or pins (not necessarily matching) can tip collars or huddle in clusters on the breasts of jackets, shirts, knitwear and coats.

At the very top of the market, larger brooches remain a key component of highly desirable transformable jewelry that breaks down into smaller pieces. Once freed from designs like colliers or tiaras, brooches can be affixed to gowns, worn as pendants or even used as hair decorations.

Gumuchian dahlia brooch — Dahlia brooch by Gumuchian in 18-karat rose gold and platinum, set with 2.8 carats of pink diamonds, 2.5 carats of white diamonds and an 11mm eggplant pearl.

Oscar Heyman brooch — Oscar Heyman has added to its menagerie of animal brooches with this platinum, enamel and diamond panda with sapphire eyes, holding an emerald leaf.

Nikos Koulis brooch — Nikos Koulis‘ gold brooch set with emeralds, black enamel, silver pearls and
diamonds.

Main picture: Alessio Boschi created a palladium and gold shark brooch using naturally shaped grey keshi pearls and a wash of Paraiba tourmalines, aquamarines and diamonds.