More than 200 jewels and decorative objects representing periods and styles from the 17th century to the present will be on display at the city’s Driehaus Museum.
Paying tribute to its regional roots as well as honoring the collecting legacy of its founder, Richard H. Driehaus, Chicago’s Driehaus Museum’s new summer exhibition is aptly titled, “Chicago Collects: Jewelry in Perspective.” It runs from May 23 through September 24.
Organized by jewelry historian and author Elyse Zorn Karlin, who curated the museum’s 2015 exhibition, “Maker and Muse: Women and Early 20th Century Art Jewelry,” it brings together more than 200 pieces of jewelry and decorative objects spanning significant jewelry periods and styles from the late Renaissance to the present. Many of the items have never been publicly displayed.
What ties the pieces from across the centuries is they have all been sourced from Chicago collections, starting with jewels and objects from the Richard H. Driehaus Collection and several pieces owned by the Driehaus Museum, including a jeweled watch, chain and fob that once belonged to King Ludwig II of Bavaria. There are also pieces from 12 private collectors, all from the greater Chicago area, including two who focus on the Chicago Arts and Crafts movement. Other Chicago contributors to the exhibition include the Chicago History Museum and the Field Museum. There are cameos and carved jade pendants from the Lizzadro Museum of Lapidary Arts and a handwrought silver punch bowl belonging to The Cliff Dwellers Club. Several working Chicago goldsmiths are also loaning their work.
Beginning with a “timeline” case of objects from the 17th century through today, including a rare piece of silver by Paul Revere, Jr., the exhibition covers 15 artistic categories: Art Nouveau, Jugendstil, Vienna Secession, British Arts and Crafts, Chicago Arts and Crafts, 19th Century Revival, Belle Époque, Louis Comfort Tiffany, Art Deco, Fabergé, Important Makers, Tiaras, Jewelry from the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition, Mid-Century Modern, and Contemporary Jewelry.
Other highlights include a one-of-a-kind opal necklace by the New York firm of Marcus & Co., which went out of business in the 1950s; a horn and moonstone tiara by British Arts and Crafts artisan Fred Partridge; a limited-edition silver and Bakelite tea-and-coffee service designed by architect Michael Graves; and a ring by Chicago jeweler Tammy Kohl that opens to reveal a special message created for the exhibition. There is jewelry by several other well-known Chicago goldsmiths, including Sherry Bender/Goldsmith’s Ltd., Dora Winchester, Steve Quick, Whitney Abrams, and Ellie Thompson. Also on view are jewelry and glass by Art Nouveau master artist René Lalique; a necklace by British 19th-century revivalist jeweler Carlo Giuliano; brooches by Art Deco designer Jean Després; and necklaces by Louis Comfort Tiffany, as well as objects designed by Tiffany, including two stained glass windows. A silver and enamel box by Eda Lord Dixon — a jeweler and metalsmith originally from Illinois, whose work is rare to find — is another standout piece.
The museum is partnering with the Association for the Study of Jewelry and Related Arts (ASJRA) to support a two-afternoon virtual conference related to the exhibition, which takes place June 1 and 2. Registration for the conference is open to the public and complete information is available at driehausmuseum.org/programs.
Main image: Necklace by Marcus & Co. in gold, enamel, black opal and pearl, c.1900. (The Richard H. Driehaus Collection)
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