This Delhi-born designer, now based in London, favors bold gems such as slice diamonds, which showcase the gems’ irregularities.
Delhi-born Manpriya Bath inherited a passion for precious stones and exacting standards of jewelry design from her mother, who owns a fashion brand in India. Determined to buy the best stones for each piece, by the 1990s Bath had become one of the very few women in the country sourcing and purchasing diamonds so that she could develop her own collection. Manpriya B’s collections are handmade to the highest standard in India and Hong Kong, using goldsmiths from a long lineage of jewelry artisans — just as her mother taught her. Bath has developed a close working relationship with her craftspeople and diamond dealers dating back nearly three decades. About 20 years ago she moved to London, where her brand is now based.
How would you describe your style?
Manpriya B draws inspiration from vintage/classical periods and modernizes these design elements for today’s confident woman. I am also inspired by architecture, antiquities, textiles and the decorative arts, which help to inform on shapes, colors, textures and finishes in my designs.
The brand is characterized by precious metals and bold gemstones like slice diamonds and tumbled semiprecious gemstones
What attracts you to slice diamonds?
Slice diamonds are thinly sliced sections of large, highly included diamond rough. Each slice diamond has inclusions that tell a story of their formation millions of years ago. They are carefully cut to preserve their original irregular outline, inclusions and shape and as such, if a design is repeated the individual piece will always be unique.
How do you source and work with slice diamonds?
I source most of my slice diamonds on buying trips to India and set them outlined in diamonds and 18-karat white gold. The light reflects across the entirety of their surface.
To what extent would you say your Indian heritage is present in your creations?
I have always wanted to create a connection between India and the West, which is another reason I am so drawn to slice diamonds. In India, polkis are a prized traditional stone and I wanted to work them into contemporary, wearable designs. The main difference [between my designs and polkis] is that most polkis in Indian jewellery are foil-backed, however, I choose to set the slice diamonds without any foil backing.
Most Indian women wear jewelry every single day — it’s their armor and makes them feel confident. My designs take this concept and reflect the modern, confident woman’s love of change and evolution. My collections feature slice diamonds, colored stones, futuristic settings, traditional techniques, and a variety of different materials. I think the varied and rich Indian culture of my birth makes it difficult for me to confine myself to one particular look.
Do you feel living in London has brought a new direction to your jewelry making?
Definitely! In London, I have an international clientele who have a strong sense of their own individual style. They are bold and willing to try different materials and I work closely with them to celebrate the fusion of traditional and contemporary, glamour and simplicity. My London clientele reflects a growing international awareness of ethical sourcing and the need to take responsibility for the impact of jewelry buying. They are exacting and the notion of buying a ‘set’ of jewelry has given way to combining styles from amongst your collection — an eclectic neck mess or bracelet stack.
How did Covid-19 affect your creative process?
As we are socializing less and working from home, I have seen an appetite for simpler, smaller shapes that are easy to wear during the day or in small gatherings. The design aesthetic becomes almost more important — combining sustainability with the chic, playful and unexpected.
What are you working on at the moment?
I am working on a new direction for my slice diamond collection to feature smaller, simpler pieces using less conventional settings and materials. For example, I am in love with slice diamonds set in mother of pearl, enamel, onyx, rose quartz or chalcedony.
What is your most meaningful personal piece of jewelry?
It is a hasli [collar] necklace — an enamel torque given to me by my parents when I got married. My mother had it commissioned in Bikaner, Rajasthan [in northern India], and it reminds me of my parents and of my wedding day. Memories are even more precious than the stones!
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