Alessandro Sabbatini, the Italian-born creator of Sabba jewels puts the woman first when designing his works.
For Alessandro Sabbatini, there is one source of inspiration that guides all of his high-jewelry creations.
“For me, it’s always about the woman,” he says.
Perhaps this laser focus on the person who will wear his jewels is the reason his creations are in such high demand. After spending three years with Cartier in Paris as an in-house designer, the Italian-born Sabbatini decided to stay in the City of Lights and founded high-jewelry brand Sabba at the age of 26. He quickly become one of a select group of young designers who have gained widespread acclaim as jewelry artists.
His three years with Cartier left an overwhelming impression on how he approaches jewelry design.
“I was able to study and learn from their archives and design for them new pieces that respected their great heritage,” he says. “I’m in love with the work of Jeanne Toussaint [Cartier’s luxury jewelry director from 1933 to 1970]. Cartier’s most eccentric creations have been realized thanks to her creative vision.”
Playing with space
It’s easy to see why Sabbatini has become successful so quickly. Now 32, he produces approximately 30 jewels per year, each with its own individuality but easily recognizable as Sabba creations. His creations are big and bold, but also have a light and airy appearance — particularly his titanium earrings, which were the focus of his 2019 collections.
“Although my designs can be very eclectic, there are certain hallmarks of a Sabba piece,” he says. “I very much like to play with volume and dimension, and I always love to use vibrant colored stones in my designs. However, I think at the moment, I’m most often associated with my titanium-set earrings, as I have developed a setting that is quite recognizable to those familiar with my work.”
When it comes to diamonds and colored gems, he is most concerned about quality and whether the stones will fit his designs. He chooses to work with a handful of dealers who are respectful of his deliberate decision-making process.
“I don’t buy at auctions or big jewelry fairs. I don’t like the feeling of being under pressure, and I need time and space when I choose the stones for my next jewels,” he says. “I periodically meet with a few dealers I know well. Quality remains central, so I immediately know whether they can ultimately be used for one of my creations.”
‘A strong feminine touch’
One of his early supporters was Joel A. Rosenthal, founder of JAR. It’s a relationship that Sabbatini prefers not to discuss. It was Rosenthal who introduced him to Fiona Druckenmiller, the owner of prestigious New York high-jewelry boutique FD Gallery. They quickly developed a close relationship, and FD Gallery became the exclusive retailer of Sabba jewels, giving Sabbatini the freedom to create without having to be involved with selling.
Sabbatini says he prefers selling his pieces there because of Druckenmiller’s feminine approach to her gallery.
“My experience has been that much of high jewelry — from production to sales — is controlled by men, which for me is an issue. I design for and am inspired by women, so who better to collaborate with than a woman?” he says. “The collection at FD Gallery has a strong feminine touch to its curation. Whether important vintage or contemporary pieces, there is a fil rouge that connects the entire collection: wearability. The pieces selected by FD are what women want to wear today. They are pieces to be worn and enjoyed, not locked away. I think this is something that really differentiates Fiona Druckenmiller and what she has done with FD, and I really respect this.”
Sabbatini is currently working on his winter collection, which he will present at FD Gallery early this month. “I’ve tried to condense this collection to only the most exciting ideas of the moment so each piece will feel exceptionally special. As always, I’m eager to hear the client’s response, but I’m super excited about them all, so for me this is a wonderful thing.”
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