Out with the bold, in with the soft hue.

Judging by the latest high-jewelry launches, we’ve all gone a bit soft. Whereas not so long ago, a jewel was judged on its ability to pack a punch, chromatically speaking — the energizing neon-blue zing of a Paraiba tourmaline, the mystic deep green of a Colombian emerald — pastels are suddenly the shades in vogue.

This summer, Chanel experimented with clusters of yellow sapphires, pink spinels, mandarin garnets and mint-green tourmalines in its Blé Maria tiara and brooch, part of its Le Paris Russe de Chanel collection. Suzanne Syz, meanwhile, went one step further, setting pastel gems in titanium that had been transformed to match the shades of delicately colored aquamarines, green beryls, morganites and purplish-pink tourmalines.

Sapphires and tourmalines of any pastel shade work well for this trend, as do light-colored rubies, bluish moonstones, and even white opals with the right sort of color play.

Diamonds make an excellent accent for this gentle palette in the form of glittering pavé, but they can also be the stars, as in De Beers’ Portraits of Nature collection. So when it comes to color selection this season, “softly does it” is the motto to follow.

Chanel Blé Maria brooch boasts a yellow sapphire, diamonds, pink spinels, mandarin garnets and mint-green tourmalines in 18-karat white gold.
Chanel. The Blé Maria brooch boasts a yellow sapphire, diamonds, pink spinels, mandarin garnets and mint-green tourmalines in 18-karat white gold.
 Suzanne Syz. Aquamarines, green beryls and morganites blend in with titanium in matching shades in these diamond-set earrings.
Suzanne Syz. Aquamarines, green beryls and morganites blend in with titanium in matching shades in these diamond-set earrings.
De Beers.  This 18-karat white-gold Knysna Chameleon necklace holds a variety of pastel-hued diamonds.
De Beers. This 18-karat white-gold Knysna Chameleon necklace holds a variety of pastel-hued diamonds.
Marika. A mixture of faceted and cabochon colored gems and diamonds decorate this hammered-gold cuff.
Marika. A mixture of faceted and cabochon colored gems and diamonds decorate this hammered-gold cuff.
J Fine. Aquamarine briolettes sit prettily next to pink and white diamonds in these earrings.
J Fine. Aquamarine briolettes sit prettily next to pink and white diamonds in these earrings.
Sutra. The Kashmir ring features pink sapphire and diamond pavé and two white opals in 18-karat rose gold.
Sutra. The Kashmir ring features pink sapphire and diamond pavé and two white opals in 18-karat rose gold.
Messika. Colored diamonds characterize these Rainbow Créole hoops in 18-karat rose gold.
Messika. Colored diamonds characterize these Rainbow Créole hoops in 18-karat rose gold.
Omi Privé. A pear-shaped moonstone, diamond pavé and a trillion-cut aquamarine give this 18-karat rose-gold pendant a pastel shimmer.
Omi Privé. A pear-shaped moonstone, diamond pavé and a trillion-cut aquamarine give this 18-karat rose-gold pendant a pastel shimmer.
Nina Runsdorf. These Clair de Lune frontal hoop earrings in 18-karat white gold contain pavé diamonds and pear-shaped moonstone cabochons.
Nina Runsdorf. These Clair de Lune frontal hoop earrings in 18-karat white gold contain pavé diamonds and pear-shaped moonstone cabochons.


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