Call of the Bosphorus: Stella Flame

The New York designer brings Eastern promise to her Hamptons gallery.

Stella Flame divides her time between New York and Istanbul. An enthusiastic traveler, she takes her inspiration from her journeys in the Near East. Most of her production is handcrafted by master artisans in Istanbul, and sold in her eponymous gallery in the heart of the Hamptons.

Flame’s creations stand out because they act as a bridge between East and West, using research in ancient Ottoman techniques and combining it with a style inspired by the Renaissance and the fine Italian jewelry house of Buccellati. Nature, talismans, sustainability and ethics are essential in her art. Her creations are also notable for their rebel edge.

During these past two years of Covid pandemic, you created two capsule collections: Veronica and Stella By Starlight, inspired by optimism, divine guidance and protection. Could you tell us more about them? 
The pandemic challenged me to rethink the concept of protection and safety beyond talismans. Veronica is exquisite ornamental armor, bejeweled with natural precious gemstones. It’s delicate yet a bold and fearless reinterpretation of medieval weaponry. The collection name says it all — the meaning of Veronica is “she who is victorious.” By contrast, Stella By Starlight is an oasis of calm. It’s a natural extension of my silent, magical pandemic night sky above the Bosphorus in Istanbul. The collection combines lustrous pearls, hand-crafted sterling silver chains and seven (always everything in sevens for luck) diamond-encrusted 18-karat eight-pointed stars, which symbolize balance and hope. Through these pieces I aim to convey that sense of peace and wonder I felt while Istanbul stood uncharacteristically still. 

You own an art gallery in Sag Harbor in the Hamptons. What criteria do you use to select the jewelry artists you showcase there? 
The baseline is great materials, workmanship, uniqueness and wearability. From there I look for jewelry artists whose one-of-a-kind and limited edition pieces work in concert and do not duplicate what we already showcase. The gallery is relatively small so creating an inviting space with a certain rhythm and flow in terms of aesthetics, materials and color is important.

What are you looking for when introducing new jewelers?
I’m looking for a unique point of view that generates excitement among myself and the sales team. When you’re smitten with the pieces, you’re selling that truthful energy that is shared easily and becomes infectious. 

Who are your collectors?
Since the gallery is in the Hamptons, of course we have our share of celebrity clients. That being said, everyone is a VIP as far as we are concerned. They’re writers and doctors, teachers and attorneys, home-makers and bankers, artists and administrators… Each is looking for something that stands out to them, is beautifully crafted and makes them feel great. 

What are your main sources of inspiration? 
Nature mainly, but I want to represent it in an honest way. A rose has thorns, gardens have snakes and scorpions. Primroses are a symbol of eternal love, yet a primrose path might be a route to heartbreak. I try to present conditions and creatures in different yet beautiful and fanciful ways, and perhaps along the way quietly challenge and shift perceptions. 

Can you describe the evolution of your creations over the years? 
I find I lean increasingly on Renaissance, Byzantine and Ottoman traditions of jewelry making. My work has become more lush and layered. While I have always liked to mix precious metals within one piece, we are working now primarily with 18-karat gold and are introducing platinum in certain pieces. 

Is there a particular piece of jewelry you created that is close to your heart more than others?
The Mille Feuille statement ring, which is part of The Grand Tour collection. It is deliciously lush with layers of pearls and diamonds surrounding a hand-carved intaglio of Eros. For me it encapsulates that love at first sight feeling, which, let’s face it, is indescribably delicious!

Main image: Designer Stella Flame. Photo: Stella Flame.