Diamonds Across Time

In 10 essays, scholars explore the industry’s origins and tell the tales of unique stones.

Diamonds Across Time, the first book published by the World Diamond Museum, uncovers extraordinary collections and new insights into the emergence of the trade, sometimes gleaned from unpublished archives.

Edited by jewelry historian Usha Balakrishnan, the book includes 10 erudite and clearly written essays by leading scholars who delve into the stories of unique diamonds from the earliest discoveries.

“The establishment of the World Diamond Museum marks the first step in the long journey to reignite the passion for diamonds, chronicle traditions, explore cultures, and show the eternal relevance of beauty,” Alex Popov, founder of the institution, a virtual showcase celebrating the story of diamonds, wrote in the foreword.

With the help of state-of-the-art computer technology, the book is illustrated with rarely seen gems and jewels, and reconstructions of historic diamonds. A team of researchers, editors, photographers and designers invested more than three years in the project.

Royal beginnings
The first essay, by Balakrishnan, charts the history of India’s flawless 120.8-carat Nizam diamond, from its discovery in Golconda to its sojourn in the court of Hyderabad, and ultimately to its exhibition at the TEFAF Maastricht show in the Netherlands in 2019.

François Farges’s essay looks at the flourishing diamonds market in 14th-century France, tracing stones purchased from dealers such as Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, and recounting records of diamonds set into crowns, rings and royal regalia.

Derek J. Content presents a history of diamonds from Borneo in Southeast Asia. He outlines the flourishing trade between Asia and Europe, dominated first by the English and then by the Dutch.

The focus on Borneo provides fresh insights into early trade in diamonds because little is known of ancient diamond deposits outside India.

India to Portugal
Hugo Miguel Crespo throws new light on the history of diamonds when, drawing upon unpublished Portuguese records and inventories, he unravels the fascinating interaction in the trade between Portugal and India in the 16th and 17th centuries.

Goa, the Portuguese enclave in India, emerged as the foremost center of the gemstone trade network between Asia and Europe, attracting dealers, cutters and jewelers.

British jewelry historian Jack Ogden charts the history of two magnificent diamonds from India, while other essays explore the well-documented diamond-jewelry collections of royal and aristocratic families, as well as of some of the world’s most influential women, such as the Duchess of Windsor and Elizabeth Taylor.