G: Glenn Spiro – The Art of a Jewel

A new book reveals one of the most inventive jewelers of our time.

At 26 Burton Street in West London, passersby will find the historic atelier and showroom of Norman Hartnell, a leading British fashion designer who was best known for his work dressing the ladies of the royal family. Originally designed by Gerald Lacoste, an innovative young architect and great friend of Hartnell, the late 18th-century townhouse is now protected as one of the finest examples of Art-Moderne pre-war commercial designs in the UK.

The main update to this historic building was to its façade, where now a white flag, displaying an elegant G, is attached to a first-floor balcony window. Those in the know are aware that this symbol represents the studio’s current resident Glenn Spiro, along with his myriad collectables, antiques and, most importantly, one-of-a-kind high jewelry creations.

A veritable treasure trove of jewels
From humble beginnings in East London to his sought-after showroom in the heart of London’s luxury Mayfair district, Spiro’s story is shrouded in mystery. After more than 25 years in the gem industry, the designer established his own brand in 2014, but he avoided doing collections and kept away from trends. Glenn Spiro pieces are only released whenever the designer sees fit, not conforming to any schedule or design aesthetic. With two elite showrooms and limited stock, only true connoisseurs know how to spot one of his designs and where to find him.

Not long ago, a meeting with Prosper Assouline at a dinner party led to the publication of G: Glenn Spiro – The Art of a Jewel. “I sat next to him at a dinner, and he asked me ‘would you let me do a book about you?’ It was all very organic,” explains Spiro, sitting in his office located behind a hidden door in his showroom. Surrounded by piles of orange suede boxes filled with his latest jewelry creations, he adds, “After chatting for a bit, I said ‘why not, let’s do it.’”

Featuring original photography of his most iconic designs, gouache drawings and personal stories from industry legends who know him best, this beautiful volume is a veritable treasure trove. It will enlighten anyone unfamiliar with his work as to why Glenn Spiro is one of the top inventive high jewelry designers of our generation.

Creating this book was a labor of love between the Assouline publishing house and Spiro, who sees it as “a memoir of the pieces I’ve made and the adventures I’ve lived through.” And many adventures there were. Jewelry expert, editor and writer Jill Newman, who penned the book’s introduction, “Glenn Spiro: The Man, The Maverick,” recalls her time spent with him over the years as a jeweler and friend: “I have known Glenn for about 20 years and I’ve always admired the work he did. If you’ve met Glenn, you know that he says things exactly as they are. He never sugarcoats anything. If it’s a great day, he’ll tell you. If it’s not a great day, he’ll tell you. He invites people to be very real and authentic. He is who he is, and he doesn’t hide that.”

Not for the faint of heart
This is the exact approach he takes when designing jewelry. “I am in the impulse passion industry, which is couture jewelry, and so my creations are not for the faint-hearted. They are for the woman who is confident,” he shares.

Marching to the beat of his own drum, Spiro does not follow in the footsteps of other great haute joaillerie houses. His work is inspired by the stones themselves, allowing more creative freedom. “I think what unites my pieces, in the absence of themes, is the confident modern aesthetic and the impact they make when worn,” he explains. This impact comes from the rare and often one-of-a-kind materials he works with, including those he has spontaneously picked up during his travels as well as those he has fought hard to find.

“I recall one crazy story in particular,” says Newman. “It’s one that’s in the book. Someone he knew in New York called him up one day to tell him that his mother, who lives in Italy, told him that the police were having a sale of some confiscated goods and that there was a really unique stone there. Long story short, Glenn had a gut feeling about this stone, so he flew someone to the sale, had them bid on it and eventually purchase the stone for him. Turns out it was a rare diamond!”

Marrying the ordinary with the extraordinary
Spiro is known for his use and manipulation of different materials. From titanium to wood and even antique horn, he has a distinctive way of combining common and unassuming materials with precious gemstones. His Colombian emerald necklace, featuring more than 212 carats is a perfect example of how he marries the ordinary with the extraordinary. “A single one of these emeralds would have made for a jaw dropping cocktail ring, but instead, he took them all and set them in green titanium, creating a fun and unpredictable piece of jewelry, just like him,” notes Newman.

For Spiro, the entire journey has been unpredictable: “It’s been an astonishing journey. Sometimes, I feel like pinching myself when I think of how it all started and where we ended up.  Even the fact that, when I was an apprentice, I visited the Hartnell atelier with a client to watch a fashion show, and now that very atelier is our private salon and my office, it feels truly magical.”

Main image: A sculptural pair of cuffs layer bands of cognac diamonds mounted in titanium between pieces of cream buffalo horn by Glenn Spiro. (Harald Gottschalk)