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Jewels That Pop: Enamel Jewelry

Onirikka. Neon hues of enamel bring the colors of the Gouldian finch to life in these 18-karat gold and diamond earrings.

Playfully colorful or tastefully neutral, enamel adds a touch of shine.

Bright and bold jewelry isn’t just for summer. As the past few seasons have proven, the rainbow has well and truly been released in fine jewelry, and enamel is a popular way to add a splash of color to jewels.

In vintage or antique pieces, it was often used to bring naturalistic details, such as flower petals, to life. Today, the material has a more prominent role to play, adding blocks of color that give jewels a playful Pop Art edge or creating vibrant, surreal wildlife motifs.

The type of enamel can vary depending on the quality and aesthetic of the design. Champlevé calls for artisans to engrave into gold and then wet-pack the enamel into the decorative recesses, while the popular plique-à-jour technique creates a stained-glass effect with windows of color. Enamel can also simply be painted on, either by hand or machine.

While enamel is most often used to bring a bright zing to designs, it can also act as a neutral. The white variety provides a spectacularly crisp backdrop to colored gemstones such as emeralds or yellow diamonds. Regardless of the enamel’s shade, this slick and shiny treatment is a tactile transformer that is keeping jewelers engaged.

Aisha Baker. Blocks of pink, green, yellow and red enamel add a fun element to this All You Need 18-karat gold and diamond ring.
Aisha Baker. Blocks of pink, green, yellow and red enamel add a fun element to this All You Need 18-karat gold and diamond ring.
Sarah Ho. These diamond and 18-karat gold earrings from the Candy collection use bezels of white enamel as a neutral.
Sarah Ho. These diamond and 18-karat gold earrings from the Candy collection use bezels of white enamel as a neutral background.
Sicis. The micro-mosaic specialist has created tiny tesserae of blue and white enamel to make these gold, diamond and blue sapphire earrings.
Sicis. The micro-mosaic specialist has created tiny tesserae of blue and white enamel to make these gold, diamond and blue sapphire earrings.
Fabergé. The house’s founder was an innovator in enamel, creating more than 145 shades — including turquoise, as seen in this Palais Tsarskoye gold and diamond pendant.
Fabergé. The house’s founder was an innovator in enamel, creating more than 145 shades — including turquoise, as seen in this Palais Tsarskoye gold and diamond pendant.
Nora Kogan. An emerald-cut, 0.34-carat diamond sits at the center of this 14-karat gold Cate ring decorated with hand-painted white enamel.
Nora Kogan. An emerald-cut, 0.34-carat diamond sits at the center of this 14-karat gold Cate ring decorated with hand-painted white enamel.
Melissa Kaye. Orange enamel and a smattering of diamonds have been applied to 18-karat yellow gold to create this Lola necklace.
Melissa Kaye. Orange enamel and a smattering of diamonds have been applied to 18-karat yellow gold to create this Lola necklace.
Doyle & Doyle. A gold Victorian necklace with blue enamel detailing and old-mined, single-cut and rose-cut diamonds above a pearl drop.
Doyle & Doyle. A gold Victorian necklace with blue enamel detailing and old-mined, single-cut and rose-cut diamonds above a pearl drop.
Lydia Courteille. A single earring in 18-karat gold with diamonds, enamel, sapphires, tanzanites, amethyst, topaz, garnets, peridot and tourmaline.
Lydia Courteille. A single earring in 18-karat gold with diamonds, enamel, sapphires, tanzanites, amethyst, topaz, garnets, peridot and tourmaline.

Main image: Onirikka. Neon hues of enamel bring the colors of the Gouldian finch to life in these 18-karat gold and diamond earrings.

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