Standing on the Shoulders of Giants: Joseph Saidian & Sons

The New York-based dealer has made its name trading in museum-quality vintage jewelry from some of the world’s most legendary estates.

A family business founded in 1850 by Iran-born Hezekian Saidian, Joseph Saidian & Sons is a fourth-generation company dealing with important gemstones, signed jewelry and jeweled objects. It is currently run by brothers Ariel Saidian and Daniel Saidian from their gallery in New York City.

Joseph Saidian & Sons has dealt with some of the most legendary jewels and gemstones of all time, including jewels from the collections of the Duchess of Windsor, the Nizam of Hyderabad, the Maharajas of Baroda and other royal families. Many of the jewels and fine objects handled by Joseph Saidian & Sons can now be found displayed in museums around the world. Here Ariel Saidian gives us the lowdown on his family business’ exceptional activity.

What are the most spectacular jewels that have been sold by Joseph Saidian & Sons?
It is extremely hard for me to narrow it down, as so many incredible things have passed through my and my predecessors’ hands. I do not even have images of so many of them, such as important old mine emeralds, Kashmir sapphires, art deco Cartier, Mughal carved emeralds mounted by Cartier, royal jewelry, antique Indian jewelry and historic enamel snuff boxes. Many of these pieces are now in museums around the world. My personal favorites are beautiful jewels made by Van Cleef & Arpels. Among the highlights:

1) An incredible emerald and diamond bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels from the collection of Brooke Astor. It’s as perfect as jewelry can get, and very deserving to be on the cover of our book The History of Jewelry (published by Rizzoli). In my opinion, it is one of the greatest jewels Van Cleef & Arpels ever made. It has everything we look for: a great provenance, from Brooke Astor’s legendary collection; irreplaceable materials with the beautiful old-mine Colombian emeralds; it’s from the most stylish era for us now, the 1960s; plus it’s wearable, it’s unique and, most importantly, it’s showstoppingly beautiful.

2) Mystery set jewelry by Van Cleef & Arpels. It’s perhaps the brand’s most well-known design. We have had quite amazing examples in rubies and sapphires, but due to the softness of emeralds and issues of setting them, very few are ever made or come to the market with mystery set emeralds. So this vintage pair of earrings are especially memorable.

3) A legendary Zipper necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels. It’s versatile, rare, wearable, beautiful, cool, mythic… I can go on and on. Any serious Van Cleef & Arpels collector should have one.

How has the estate jewelry sector evolved?
The frequent worldwide auctions and accessibility of information online have educated generations, making everyone more knowledgeable. Because of this, many categories and periods of vintage jewellery are experiencing new life.

What is the demand for estate jewels like?
For us, it has never been stronger. Very frequently we get approached by new collectors who are amazed by the variety, personality and accessibility of vintage jewels as opposed to something that has come right off the bench into a retail store.
Signed and colorful pieces are among the most popular. We see that white diamond jewelry has taken a backseat to jewelry with powerful colors in recent years. People are looking forward to expressing their personalities with their jewels, as opposed to having jewels restricted to formal wear.
In terms of brands, Cartier, Bulgari, JAR and Verdura are always strong. However, Van Cleef & Arpels is by far the strongest brand for us.

What would be your best advice to someone starting an estate jewelry collection?
Even if the jewel is authentic, beautiful, priced correctly and well made, do not buy it unless it speaks to you. If you cannot imagine smiling every time you wear it or telling a sentimental story when passing it to an heir, then consider another jewel. Jewelry is the most personal of all one’s possessions. It needs to elicit happy thoughts and energy.

Main image: Cartier tutti frutti bracelet. Image: Joseph Saidian & Sons.