Pearls of Wisdom: Yana Nesper

Conscious consumption and quality control are high priorities for Germany’s pearl queen.

Thirty years ago, Yana Nesper fell in love twice. First with her husband Frank and second with pearls, the industry his family was working in. Her passion took her far away from Ukraine, where she was raised. Today, the Germany-based designer thinks pearls’ sophistication and classic style make them suitable for both women and men. She is also a strong advocate for everyday wearability, saying “My jewelry is not just for special occasions, it’s intended for everyday life. The biggest compliment is to know that it becomes someone’s choice of accessory.”

Do you remember when you discovered pearls?
Yes, it all started in 1992 when I met my husband Frank at 18 years old. At the time, he was in the process of taking over the pearl business from his father. After our wedding, I joined the company and immediately felt in the right place, like I belonged. This is when I discovered my big joy and passion for pearls and jewelry in general.

Which size, shape and color of pearls are your favorites?
It probably sounds so clichéd, but I genuinely love all types and sizes of pearls in combination with each other. However, a true favorite is the white South Sea pearl combined with yellow gold – an absolute classic that is currently seeing a great revival in fashion.

Can you talk about some of your experiences regarding pearl harvesting?
My husband Frank is a very knowledgeable and skilled pearl expert. Usually he is the one who travels to the cultivation areas, often for many weeks of the year. I sometimes join him, most recently in 2019 when we visited the Kimberley region in Australia. Far off the tourist routes in Northwestern Australia, the world’s most beautiful South Sea pearls grow in remote and sunny bays. Visiting this pearl farm three years ago was a personal highlight for me. I am not usually fond of traveling that far away from home, but it was a very special trip and is now a memory I hold dear to my heart.

Are you seeing an increase in interest and demand for pearls on the market?
I think so. People are becoming more and more conscious of their purchasing habits and are increasingly looking for pieces to keep forever. Quality pearls can be exactly that. Pearls are pure and natural, and I think that’s the secret of their allure. They are the only jewel on earth produced by a living organism. Their softness, their femininity and their preciousness are unique in the world of accessories. Meaningful, individual and hand-picked jewelry that has a story to tell and is locally produced with love, passion and responsibility – these are all factors that play an important role in treasures for a lifetime. More conscious consumption also protects the environment that is so important for our industry. Pearl cultivation depends heavily on clean and balanced nature.

What factors should customers consider when choosing pearl jewelry?
First and foremost, I recommend only buying pearls of high quality – the joy will last much longer, just like the pearls. Poor quality pearls with bad coating lose their luster and shine quickly, and there are a lot of those on the market. Please buy your pearls from certified experts, a reliable source or a brand that guarantees the authenticity and high quality of its products.

Why did you choose to collaborate with the Pink Ribbon initiative?
I wanted to draw attention to this important topic because breast cancer can affect every woman. Education and prevention save lives and I’m convinced that, especially when a woman is confronted with the profound changes breast cancer brings along, it is important to keep focusing on the beautiful side of life.

Since 2017, I’ve therefore been working together with Pink Ribbon Germany, launching a new product featuring a pink freshwater pearl every year. Ten percent of the proceeds of every Pink Pearl jewelry piece sold are donated to the non-profit organization. I also regularly sponsor Pink Ribbon events and support other associations and foundations dedicated to fighting breast cancer, including LebensHeldin! e.V. in Hamburg and the Marie Keating Foundation in Dublin.

With the Pink Pearl jewelry pieces themselves, I seek to create awareness on the subject in my own creative, very personal way, giving affected women courage and a literal glimmer of hope. Pink pearls have become symbolic companions in the commitment to fighting against the disease.

What’s your process when designing bridal pieces?
I usually start by choosing the right pearl. For bridal looks, I find Akoya pearls to be the best choice. They might be the most traditional among the pearls but that is for a good reason – their ever-elegant shine, their creamy color and their classic charm make them just what a bride needs to elevate her look on the most special day of her life. If authentic and of high quality, Akoya pearls will also keep their shine and appeal for a very long time, making them the ideal choice for jewelry that is made to last instead of worn for just a season or two. All pieces in our Yana Nesper collection, particularly our bridal line, reflect this modern and conscious approach to pearls.

Lately, many designers have chosen to add pearls to their jewelry designs for men. Would you consider approaching this segment with your pieces as well?
I absolutely love this trend! I’ve always admired Karl Lagerfeld for wearing Tahitian pearls many years ago. However, I wouldn’t design pieces specifically for men, personally; many of our own pieces are already unisex and, due to their transformability, it is very easy to adjust them in length and size. This goes for almost all pieces – necklaces, bracelets, even rings. My hairdresser was my first male customer years ago. He owns a beautiful bracelet with one huge baroque pearl.

In 2020, you were awarded the German Design Award. In 2021, Yana Nesper entered the US market. What may we expect from your brand in 2022?
I am really excited to exhibit our pieces at Paris Fashion Week for the first time. Our traditional jewelry shows are VicenzaOro in Italy and Inhorgenta in Germany, so I am curious to connect to the fashion world in France. On top of that, I am currently working on a project combining jewelry design and new technology – it’s incredibly exciting!

Main image: Designer Yana Nesper. Photo: Yana Nesper.