Geoff Hess, Sotheby’s head of watches for the Americas, talks about the latest timepiece trends and connoisseurs’ most coveted models.


In the Jewelry Connoisseur Podcast’s first episode dedicated entirely to the vintage timepiece market, our guest, Geoff Hess, analyzes how collectors have evolved from seeing watches solely as an investment to looking at these luxury items as cherished collectibles.    

“Now we’re seeing that the fun is back, and people are more willing to study watches. They’re less inclined to just go to a store, buy a watch and go home with it. As a consequence, we’re seeing a greater and renewed interest in vintage watches once again,” he notes.  

A dedicated watch collector for decades, the Sotheby’s specialist has developed broad knowledge across vintage and modern timepieces, especially sports watches. In this new installment of the podcast, Hess highlights which watch models are capturing collectors’ attention — with Rolex still reigning supreme. He also looks at how social media channels are opening up the market to a new generation of collectors. Additionally, we hear about some of the auction house’s most interesting timepieces sold in 2023. Provenance and rarity — “fresh to market” — play a key role in desirability, Hess says.

To listen to the interview, click below.

This episode — along with the two previous seasons — is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify and YouTube.

The Jewelry Connoisseur Podcast is hosted by Rapaport Editor in Chief Sonia Esther Soltani, and produced and edited by Vanina Pikholc.

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