Fancy cuts are putting a playful spin on classic diamond jewelry.

Sparkle was once all we wanted from diamonds. Now, as our jewelry collections become more playful and less pretentious, we are willing to sacrifice a little of that round-brilliant dazzle for a quirky shape.

Cutting has always been at the heart of diamond jewelry, and while pears, princesses and their peers have long drawn admirers, there is a push for shapes with less-marked dance cards. Even the baguette — the go-to contemporary cut of recent years — is proving more fashionable as an asymmetric, tapered version of itself.

Other statement-diamond oddities finding their way into new collections include half-moon cuts, which Texas-based jewelry designer Nak Armstrong describes as “modern, Deco and romantic all at the same time…. [They] remind me of scalloped collars and hemlines.”

Kite cuts are also flying high, both as accents and main stones, while trillions and shield cuts lend a similarly tough, geometric edge to jewels.
Best of all are creations that bring together a collection of multiple shapes in a single piece, like Manpriya B’s Dangling Diamond Fantasy Cut necklace. With 21 diamonds in a smorgasbord of hard-to-find fancy cuts, it
serves as a traveling gallery of alternative diamond styles

Manpriya B’s Dangling Diamond Fantasy Cut necklace.
Manpriya B’s Dangling Diamond Fantasy Cut necklace.
Nak Armstrong Baton bracelet in 20-karat rose gold with 4.29 carats of half-moon and tapered baguette diamonds.
Nak Armstrong Baton bracelet in 20-karat rose gold with 4.29 carats of half-moon and tapered baguette diamonds.
Michelle Oh Danja ring in 18-karat yellow gold with a hexagon-cut teal sapphire and two kite-shaped white diamonds.
Michelle Oh Danja ring in 18-karat yellow gold with a hexagon-cut teal sapphire and two kite-shaped white diamonds.
Magen Jewellery necklace featuring a patented Magen-cut diamond surrounded by six trillion-cut diamonds in 18-karat rose gold.
Magen Jewellery necklace featuring a patented Magen-cut diamond surrounded by six trillion-cut diamonds in 18-karat rose gold.
Brent Neale Diamond Kite Gypsy ring in 18-karat yellow gold with a kite-shaped diamond and three princess-cut diamonds.
Brent Neale Diamond Kite Gypsy ring in 18-karat yellow gold with a kite-shaped diamond and three princess-cut diamonds.
Harakh Peacock earrings in 18-karat white gold with round, pear and custom-cut tapered baguette diamonds.
Harakh Peacock earrings in 18-karat white gold with round, pear and custom-cut tapered baguette diamonds.
Le Vian Couture ring with a 2.04-carat Chocolate diamond flanked by two 0.83-carat shield-cut diamonds in 18-karat Strawberry gold and platinum.

Le Vian Couture ring with a 2.04-carat Chocolate diamond flanked by two 0.83-carat shield-cut diamonds in 18-karat Strawberry gold and platinum.
Dru Mismatched Trillions Hoops in 14-karat yellow gold with three trillion-cut diamonds weighing a total of 0.36 carats.
Dru Mismatched Trillions Hoops in 14-karat yellow gold with three trillion-cut diamonds weighing a total of 0.36 carats.
Moritz Glik Esmeralda ring in 18-karat yellow gold with baguette diamonds enclosed in a white sapphire Kaleidoscope shaker.
Moritz Glik Esmeralda ring in 18-karat yellow gold with baguette diamonds enclosed in a white sapphire Kaleidoscope shaker.

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