These nine designers share why they use July’s powerful birthstone in their creations.
Roshni and Rahul Jhaveri, Studio Renn
“Before starting the studio, our knowledge of and experience with gemstones was limited to diamonds, since we came from a diamond-cutting and -polishing background. Rubies heralded a deep dive into experimenting with colored gemstones. It started with a specific idea — ‘oozing drops of blood’ (from the Bleeding Tooth series). And it is from there — that color and that sentiment — that we began to source no-heat Burmese ruby cabochons. It is that vibrant red that we began to set in a way that only their reflections show, or by hiding them so that only glimpses of them show, like a hidden life-force and energy. The majority of rubies available in India are from Mozambique [and] have a purplish undertone. The true reds we were after are from Burma. We source our Burmese rubies from cutters in Thailand.
“The color red has a lot of significance and meaning throughout different cultures. It is an auspicious color, especially in India, representing fertility, life and purity. It is for what it evokes in people and in us that we love using rubies.”
Melissa Kaye, Melissa Kaye
“When choosing colored gemstones to pair with diamonds, I look for stones that provide a rich element of contrast. The saturated red hue of our Madagascar rubies not only gives each piece a pop of color, but also an additional element of luxury that is consistent with our design philosophy. Given that rubies are one of the most durable stones, they’re conducive to designs like ours that are meant to be enjoyed and worn daily.”
Flora Bhattachary, Flora Bhattachary
“I wanted to be sure that we could tell our clients that the rubies we are using were traceable to the mine of origin. I have been working with a Fairtrade gemstone dealer for a while who has family links to the Chimwadzulu mine in Malawi where they have a significant impact on the mining itself. This gives me confidence about the stones we are using. The stones are pinker than the average ruby and I’m attracted to this color for its feminity. When I’m designing with rubies I’m considering their wonderful color – but I’m also thinking about their symbolism and their traditional association with the power of life, marriage and fertility.”
Darius Khonsary, Darius
“Ruby has, since ancient times, been coveted and regarded as one of the most powerful stones, heavy with mysticism and lore. Associated with blood and fertility, the ancients believed ruby to contain the power of life. Our rubies are entirely antique, as we believe the old cutting methods result in uniquely individual gemstones that are unparalleled in their aura of romance. Many of these stones have been repurposed from antique jewelry, containing within themselves secret histories. These antique rubies perfectly suit the Darius ethos, with its focus on building a bridge to the archaeological past through the crafting of jewels at once both ancient and deeply modern. [They are] timeless in that they speak to the history of humanity in relation to the natural world and the unseen magic that permeates existence.”
Nam Cho, Nam Cho
“Rubies are a quintessentially timeless and luxurious stone, and I can’t think of another gem that has such a brilliant red color.”
Kelty Pelechytik, Kelty Pelechytik
“Rubies are such a passionate and effortlessly chic stone. They are so rich in color, versatile, and traditionally thought to bestow protection upon the wearer.”
Vram Minassian, Vram
“Affection, passion and enthusiasm are some of the emotions one can express with the king of gems…or at least the king of the corundum family. In my experience, Madagascar rubies are a very pure red — the perfect counterpoint to the hue of my preferred yellow gold alloy.”
Shakti Ellenwood, Shakti Ellenwood
“When I first heard about some of the horrors that occurred in the mining world, I was shocked beyond belief. How could something so precious to me cause so much destruction? Something I was, unwittingly, part of? So I began by using recycled gold in my designs and then became registered to buy Fairtrade gold in an endeavor to make more ethical jewelry. This passion for responsible sourcing applies to the stones I use too. Rubies are notoriously hard to trace especially as I work with special cuts such as heart shapes. I found Greenland Ruby who ticked all by response sourcing boxes as well as being able to provide the shapes of ruby that are integral to my work”
Dima Rashid, Dima
“Rubies are full of energy! I love working with rubies, because I feel they’re fearless. Their intense red color brings out strength, passion and life.”
Main image: Studio Renn Bleeding Tooth bracelet in 18-karat white and yellow gold set with unheated Burmese ruby cabochons, Burmese rubies and diamonds.
Comments are closed.