A new exhibition in Milan showcases the heritage and history of Van Cleef & Arpels through the fragmented 20th century and into the 21st.
For the first time in Italy, a new exhibition, “Van Cleef & Arpels: Time, Nature, Love,” presents the French maison’s high-jewelry world. The event boasts 400 of the jewels, watches and precious objects the iconic house has produced since its foundation in 1906.
The exhibition’s three eponymous concepts are considered the brand’s most representative values. The inspiration for these categories comes from Italo Calvino’s American Lessons. Six Memos for the Next Millennium, and its main concepts — lightness, quickness, exactitude, visibility and multiplicity.
The three notions are derived from Calvino’s concepts are the common thread that link all the jewels together. Throughout the exhibition, 10 rooms are dedicated to “time.” Love is at the core of the display, represented by designs that express the intensity of this powerful feeling. The last three rooms are devoted to nature, with flora- and fauna-inspired jewels.
All of the jewels showcased at the Milan exhibition, which runs through February 23, were sourced from Van Cleef’s illustrious Heritage Collection and important private loans. Among these are creations that define Van Cleef’s signature style — from ludo bracelets to the iconic zip necklace, ballerina brooches, and extravagant and sophisticated minaudières. Also featured are jewels that belonged to iconic women such as Grace Kelly of Monaco, Maria Callas and the unforgettable Elizabeth Taylor.
A balancing act
Time, nature and love are life’s most significant and representative values, especially when it comes to objects that are part of our daily routine, according to exhibition curator Alba Cappellieri. It is not easy to find these values in jewelry, as this discipline walks the tightrope between the eternal and the ephemeral, tradition and fashion, and nature and the artificial. However, high jewelry has the distinction of representing timelessness. Moreover, this exhibition embodies the 20th century, its cultural fragmentation, and the power of Van Cleef & Arpels to represent beauty and seduction. Through its jewels, nature becomes art, both in terms of craftsmanship and the brand’s creative attitude that aspires to harmonious design.
This is what the visitor will discover: Each Van Cleef & Arpels jewel is created with love. The exhibition is a wonderful opportunity to appreciate the house’s extraordinary history and heritage. It is a journey that demonstrates how the maison’s jewelry has been able to represent the passing of time while designing timeless creations.
Main image: Ballerina clip in yellow gold, sapphire, rubies, and diamonds, 1945.
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