Having fallen out of favor for the best part of a century, this traditional cut is now blooming once again — particularly among India’s bridal designers.
Rose-cut diamonds originated in the 1500s and were commonly used throughout the Georgian and Victorian eras. Today, they are making a comeback and gaining popularity, especially in the bridal market. When Justin Theroux proposed to Jennifer Aniston with a rose-cut diamond ring in 2012, demand for the cut proliferated — and it hasn’t slowed down since.
Distinguishing features
Rose-cut diamonds have up to 24 facets, which together resemble the shape of a rosebud. The cut’s flat bottom meanwhile creates a larger surface area, which enhances the stone’s opulence and brilliance, ensuring it performs exquisitely — even in low light conditions.
The contours of the rough diamond crystal influences the shape the diamond will follow, with cutters working hard to preserve as much as of the original diamond’s weight as possible in order to yield maximum results. Thanks to the shallow height that’s synonymous with this magnificent cut, even the thinnest crystals — while not deep enough to cut into other shapes — can be polished to create a rose-cut diamond.
The rose-cut diamond also carries its entire carat weight on top, with nothing stored below the girdle. This has the advantage of making the stone appear larger, when viewed from the top, than a full-cut diamond of the same carat weight.
Moreover, because the cut features a flat back, with no facets on the underside of the gem to reflect light, it makes the diamond look transparent — giving it a more delicate, serene appearance, compared to the sparkle of a full-cut diamond. This is augmented when set in a ring; because there is no pavilion, rose-cut diamonds sit close to the skin, giving them a sensuality and level of intimacy that isn’t experienced with other shapes.
Hitting the right notes with contemporary designers
Delivering the optimal amount of sheen, without the gaudiness, the rose-cut diamond has become increasingly popular with many modern-day designers. In India, for example, the cut appeals to jewelers creating heritage pieces: those drawing inspiration from the country’s Mughal history, while also taking influences from the Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements.
Champions here include Sajil Shah of Sajjante Fine Jewels, Vishal Anil Kothari of the eponymously titled VAK, Mumbai-based Viren Bhagat, and husband and wife jewelers, Manisha and Saurabh Mody.
The attraction is clear; with a larger surface area, it is possible to design a more interesting and affordable piece that retains the luxe appearance of a full-cut diamond, without the associated price-tag. This, in turn, helps expand the jewelers’ reach — increasing their standing with the millennial market, which typically seeks a bigger look on a smaller budget.
Did you know?
• Colored gems look better set with rose-cut diamonds than with round brilliant-cut stones. This is because most colored stones cannot be cut with the same number of facets as a round brilliant-cut diamond, and are therefore unable to reflect the light in the same way — making the gemstones appearing dull when seated alongside. Conversely, with fewer facets and a flat back that does not reflect the light, rose-cut diamonds allow colored gemstones to take centerstage, enhancing rather than detracting from their appearance.
• According to Dr Nawal Agarwal, partner at Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas, table-cut, full cut, tulip-cut, step-cut, and benaras-cut (kashi kamal) gems are the ones most frequently used alongside rose-cut diamonds.
Rose-cut diamonds in bridal jewelry: industry perspectives
“Rose-cut [diamonds help balance the] bright colorful clothing of the bride and her jewelry, [delivering] a larger than life look, at a more affordable price; they go well with the modern bride, making them the best choice for bridal jewelry.”
Jatin Hariani, partner, Jatin Gems
“Rose cut [stones, mixed] with round brilliant-cut diamonds, makes for a great combination [when] crafting designer bridal jewelry. This way, not only can the designer do more justice to the motif, but [they can] also play more with design aesthetics.”
Dr Nawal Agarwal, partner, Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas
Main image: Sajjante necklace set with rose-cut diamonds.
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