A Legacy of Empowerment

Satta Matturi uses her jewelry not only to honor African culture, but also to strengthen African businesses.

Matturi Fine Jewellery’s new Whispers of Meröe line is a celebration — of a forgotten civilization, of strong women, of African culture and of the natural resources for which the continent is famous. Inspired by the lost Kingdom of Kush, it tells the tale of the Black Pharaohs who once ruled Egypt, and their fierce but glamorous warrior queens.

Designer Satta Matturi describes the bold fine jewels in the collection as “a twisted form of Art Deco, African-style.” Every element has meaning; while developing the collection, Matturi spent hours immersed in books at the British Museum and even consulted an Egyptologist. “The use of black onyx and ivory signifies the trade of ebony and ivory with sub-Saharan nations; pastel-hued morganites [depict] the desert landscapes; the emphasis on spiky, sharp elements represents the skilled Kushite archers in their armies; and triangular diamonds are the pyramids,” she explains, pointing out that there are more pyramids in Meröe (once the Kushite seat of power) than in Egypt.

The Sierra Leone-born jeweler has always sought to connect to her African roots by using powerful motifs. Her Nomoli Totem earrings take the form of African masks, and this signature design makes a return in Whispers of Meröe, embellished with a gold arc resembling a pharaonic headdress.
Using responsibly sourced raw materials from Africa has also been key for Matturi, who spent many years working for De Beers before launching her own brand. She has recently deepened this commitment by seeking out gems from African-owned companies. Matturi Fine Jewellery works closely with a polishing factory in Gaborone, Botswana, to source some of its diamonds, and has started buying colored gems from indigenous-owned mines in Tanzania, Zambia and Malawi.

“A country’s mineral wealth is something to be shared by all its citizens and not just a chosen few,” says Matturi, who has partnered with the female-owned and managed Sierra United Football Club to fund a Sierra Leone youth football club. “Countries such as Botswana have done this really well through public-private partnerships, and while there are gaps in the system, it should be a blueprint for other countries to follow.”

She hopes to see more positive developments in Africa’s mining industries, such as producer countries investing in new technology to fuel local enterprise rather than simply selling off natural assets. “At the moment, there are so many barriers to entry for new ventures and entrepreneurs in the African jewelry industry and sourcing sectors, and the more we can do to unlock some of those barriers, the better.”

Main image: Model wearing Matturi Fine Jewellery Nomoli Totem earrings in 18-karat yellow gold with brilliant-cut diamonds and onyx.