A Modern-Day Treasure Hunter: Sofia Kaman

Inspired by the past, this designer has mastered changing with the times.

When Sofia Kaman was a young girl, she was enamored with found objects. An adventurer at heart, she would comb her Texas-based surroundings for items that were akin to the stuff of legends.
“My childhood dream was to be a treasure hunter — a female Indiana Jones without the bugs and bad guys,” she quips.

As she grew up and moved to Los Angeles, she continued to be fascinated with artifacts, the lore of history and the lure of antiquity. A history major, she quickly turned to jewelry after taking a few classes, and upon discovering the art of wax carving, the enduring quality of the materials, and the beauty and inherent quality of gemstones, she felt an immediate connection to the craft.
“I was also intrigued by where a piece had traveled and whose life it had been a part,” Kaman explains.

Today, her designs fuse her affinity for antique periods — from Victorian to Art Deco references — with modern wearability in all classifications of jewelry. She is also inspired by gothic architecture; the delicate details of French and Indian textiles, from brocades to saris and old-world techniques; and the textures of jewelry making. Her bridal jewelry and custom designs have become the dominant part of her business.

Your business has changed dramatically, can you tell how?
I launched in 2001 with wholesale-only accounts. By 2008 I opened my first store in Venice, and at that time I was still wholesaling to a number of fine retail shops. Our bridal business continued to grow and evolve, as did our custom engagement-ring business. At that point, I made the decision to concentrate more on the retail business and continue wholesale with only a few accounts with whom I built incredible relationships. Then in 2018, we moved headquarters to an expanded location in Santa Monica, with showroom, main office and atelier space all in one. In 2021, we reached a pinnacle year in online and retail sales and began our expansion goals.

What is your most recent news?
By the end of 2021 we had made our decision to grow our retail presence in other key US markets. And by the beginning of 2022, we developed our plan to go national. After building a strong social-media and online presence we are reaching out directly to our clients in major cities via pop-up shops. Our first one is scheduled for this spring in New York City, with plans for more east coast cities this summer. We’d love to go on the road a couple of times per year until we establish some clear data and test our strategies before leaping into opening additional permanent locations. Clients want to connect with designers and brands directly, especially when it comes to this meaningful type of jewelry. The more accessible and engaged you can be with your clients, the better.

How has your bridal collection evolved over the years?
It has been a natural evolution. My perspective on wedding and engagement jewelry has always been that it should be a reflection of one’s personal style. Clients would come in asking whether our Leaf and Pod ring was a wedding band. I would say, “Of course. Any style can be a wedding band if it suits you!” I started by creating bridal jewelry based on my affinity for the details of antique jewelry, and that’s still what drives my bridal business today.

What percentage of your business is bridal?
Our business has over the years become 75% bridal and 25% fine and antique jewelry.

Which of your clients prefer natural versus lab-grown diamonds?
My main objective is using the most beautiful, unique and sustainable materials available. My preference is to use natural, antique diamonds — the nuances of the old cuts add an unmatched charm to any design. However, there are some clients, those who really prefer larger, whiter or more perfectly cut stones, in which case the lab-grown option provides a more attractive price point for this look. For lab-grown diamonds, we partner almost exclusively with Diamond Foundry, which uses renewable and clean energy, for those clients who value sustainability as well as a more modern, sparkly look.

Why do you prefer antique and vintage diamonds to brand-new diamonds?
The antique cuts lend so much more character and charm. They are one-of-a-kind beauty, each one different from the next one, we find. That uniqueness makes them the perfect centerpieces for such personal and symbolic pieces of jewelry, such as engagement rings. With no new environmental impacts, antique diamonds are hands down my preferred choice.

What modern natural-diamond cuts do you use and how do you incorporate them into your engagement ring designs?
I use fewer natural, modern than antique cuts, aside from melee and a few other types of more rustic diamonds. The modern cuts I select tend to be unique, such as salt-and-pepper or rose-cut shapes. I use more antique diamond center stones as they add to the past-meets-the-present aesthetic and style of my pieces.

What change would you like to see and be part of in the industry?
More transparency regarding how and where materials are sourced. It’s been a constant battle to get this information since starting my business in 2001. Just now, in 2022, I am hearing from more and more vendors that gems are blockchained and sources documented, which is a great improvement, yet there’s still so much work to do here!

What advice would you give to someone starting off in the industry?
This is a wonderful industry with so many facets (I can never resist that pun!). There are many artisans with so much knowledge to share; they have such a love and pride in what they do, and they are happy to offer you the benefits of their hands-on education. There are also so many skillsets you get to practice in order to have a thriving business, from being an artist to an entrepreneur. At the end of the day, if you have a very specific voice, are passionate, talented and dedicated, and have the ability to change with the times and learn from your mistakes as well as your triumphs, you will succeed!