Design with Purpose: Amira Karaouli

This Tunisian-born, Lebanon-trained jeweler launched her label only a month before the onset of the pandemic.

With two uncles who were jewelers, Amira Karaouli was fascinated with her mother’s collection at a young age. Yet it was after leaving her dentistry studies in Romania and moving to Paris that she decided to follow her childhood passion, enrolling in a jewelry-design course in Beirut, Lebanon.

Inspired by Tunisia — where she was born and raised — as well as the multiple cities she’s called home, her jewels are a reminder of women’s strength. This potency motivates them to “keep fighting, even when things seem impossible,” she observes.

Karaouli’s style draws on oriental shapes, the colors she grew up with, and the chateaux that decorate the grounds of France. Currently, she is working on a new line inspired by old Tunisian and Berber jewelry, with an oriental touch. Having launched her brand only a month before the pandemic started, she discusses how the crisis and the younger generations are impacting the jewelry industry.

How would you define the French oriental fusion of jewelry that characterizes your designs?
I would define it as a modern twist on classic arabesque symbols, influenced by French architecture and culture.

 
What did you learn from the jewelers in your family that is useful for your own project?
The most important thing that I learned from my uncles is that our jewelry designs must stem from our passion and love for the craft, rather than being seen solely as a job. With every piece that I design, I ensure that I put my heart and soul into every aspect of it.

Why did you decide to live in Paris? How has that city changed your professional roots?
I moved to Paris in 2012 to complete my studies in dental surgery. However, the city continuously inspired me, further fueling my passion for jewelry. A few years later, I decided to fulfill my childhood dream and enroll in a jewelry-designing course in Beirut, Lebanon.

Which kind of elements from the various cultures of Tunisia do you bring to your work?
I have always been inspired by the richness and diversity of the Tunisian culture and aim to incorporate that in my work. In particular, the structural elements and colors that constitute its architecture.

Which are your favorite gemstones to create with?
Several of my designs incorporate malachite, which is one of my favorite stones because it is symbolic of protection, serenity and tenderness. Similarly, I also love creating pieces with emeralds, which are a symbol of wisdom and hope. Last, but certainly not the least, I always enjoy working with diamonds, which are traditional but timeless and represent commitment.

What was the design process when you created the Warrior Princess Bangle, which symbolizes the strength of Tunisian women?
The Warrior Princess Bangle’s design was inspired by the architectural style of Parisian castles. The bangle was conceptualized to represent strength, power and beauty. No matter which walk of life we belong to, we have all experienced the most difficult of times. This bangle serves as a reminder to its wearer that they are not alone, and motivates them to keep fighting, even when things seem impossible.

 
You launched your brand in February 2020, right before the pandemic changed the world. Is there something you learned from this event that will impact your brand?
As the pandemic hit just after the brand was launched, I truly learned the importance and power of social media. Apart from showcasing at Paris Fashion Week [in 2020], social media was the only tool I could use to present and promote my brand.

How do you think young customers — millennials and Gen Z-ers — are influencing trends on gemstones and jewelry?
The younger generations have brought about a lot of changes in the jewelry industry. They value and preserve old materials and stones, while simultaneously being keen to discover new materials and shapes. Also, their interest in sustainability has prompted brands to rethink their strategies and designs. As jewelry designers, it is essential to constantly find new ways to connect with these young consumers.

What do you think are the challenges jewelers will face soon?
After two years of the pandemic, we certainly have to focus more on leveraging social media and driving sales online. However, the challenge jewelers have already begun to face is the lack of physical contact, which can be crucial for clients. Additionally, I think jewelers will have to focus more on sustainability and the ethics of their processes.

Which are your goals as a designer for the coming years?
My goal for the coming years is for Amira Karaouli Fine Jewelry to develop further and establish itself as a well-known brand. I also intend to continue supporting underprivileged women and children with a portion of sales.

Main image: Amira Karaouli, designer. Photo: Amira Karaouli.