Rose-cut diamonds are in demand for their timeless, subtle beauty.

In Cartier’s latest high-jewelry collection, Sixième Sens par Cartier, you will find a secret rose-cut diamond. In addition to the cluster of rose-cut trillions lighting up its Phaan cocktail ring, there is one more hidden beneath its 8.20-carat central ruby.

The architects of this ring will tell you that this is not a frivolous display of haute-joaillerie excess, but rather a clever gemological trick. The positioning of the rose-cut diamond improves the lighting beneath the ruby, thus enhancing its color.

Understated beauty is a concept that has threaded through the history of this cut; from delivering masculine shimmer for maharajas, to playfully throwing shards of color across the faces of candlelit Victorian women.
Today, its soft power is still in vogue with a contemporary crowd. Designer Ellis Mhairi Cameron, who works with brown and orange rose-cut diamonds, has been inundated with orders for both male and female styles.
“With rose cuts, they can go for bigger stones, without the design being as flashy as a brilliant cut,” she says.

Omi Privé has similarly responded to “an uptick in desire” driven by demand for vintage styles. However, the brand argues that rose-cut diamonds are not only capable of understated shine — they also have a larger surface area, which adds depth and extreme sparkle.

Ellis Mhairi Cameron drop earrings in 14-karat gold with mixed-cut diamonds, including rose cuts.
Ellis Mhairi Cameron drop earrings in 14-karat gold with mixed-cut diamonds, including rose cuts.

Arman Sarkisyan diamond bracelet in 18-karat gold and oxidized silver.
Arman Sarkisyan diamond bracelet in 18-karat gold and oxidized silver.
Van Cleef & Arpels vintage ballerina brooch in 18-karat gold, with diamonds, rubies and emeralds, circa 1943.
Van Cleef & Arpels vintage ballerina brooch in 18-karat gold, with diamonds, rubies and emeralds, circa 1943.
Michelle Fantaci key charm in 14-karat yellow gold, enamel with rose-cut diamonds.
Michelle Fantaci key charm in 14-karat yellow gold, enamel with rose-cut diamonds.
Cartier Phaan ring in 18-karat gold with diamonds and rubies.
Cartier Phaan ring in 18-karat gold with diamonds and rubies.

Omi Privé ring with an oval, 3.05-carat, pink sapphire in 18-karat yellow gold, with round rose-cut diamonds and round diamonds.
Omi Privé ring with an oval, 3.05-carat, pink sapphire in 18-karat yellow gold, with round rose-cut diamonds and round diamonds.

Stephen Silver hoop earring in 18-karat gold and diamond
Stephen Silver hoop earrings in 18-karat gold and diamond.


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