Designer Frédérique Dessemond reflects on contemporary jewelry as she marks her brand’s 20th anniversary.
In an interesting twist of fate, this year the French heritage brand Ginette NY marks its 20th anniversary, around the same time its creator and designer Frédérique Dessemond is celebrating her oldest daughter’s 20th birthday.
Dessemond was born in Marseille, France, and grew up in a minimalist building complex designed by the French architect Le Corbusier. In 1999, after studying art history, Dessemond moved to New York, having won a green card in a lottery. Once settled in the city, in 2002 she established her brand, Ginette NY. Her designs have a subtle balance of structure, emotion and sensuality, wrapped in jewels characterized by clean lines and natural colored gemstones.
Ginette NY’s 20th year inspired Dessemond to revive the label’s iconic designs, such as its talismanic, sentimental charms, worn on a sautoir or bracelet. Ginette NY’s contemporary jewels play with natural shapes and bold colors. It’s latest collection, They, features gems including onyx, jade, turquoise, pearls, and rhodochrosite, complemented by diamonds. As well as designing for women, the brand has lines targeted at men and children.
Celebrating such a milestone has made Dessemond reflective, and the French designer took time out to share with us some the changes she has witnessed over two decades in jewelry design.
How has contemporary jewelry evolved in the past 20 years?
A real evolution happened 20 years ago. Haute joaillerie and high-end costume jewelry were the only offerings in the market. Very few brands were offering gold collections in between those two giant worlds. I am proud to say we were part of the first brand to make real gold and real diamonds that can be worn every day — non-pretentious collections, emotionally connected. Modern and delicate pieces for women who would wear their jewelry every day.
How do you think consumers have changed?
The offering became wider so that customers can have the opportunity to find pieces they love and can wear every day. The price point is also more affordable since we are talking about lighter pieces, even though the gold market kept climbing up. And of course, an open mind for a new approach to the joaillerie is certainly part of the journey.
Which other contemporary artists and fashion designers do you admire?
Stella McCartney is a woman of taste, and she always works with integrity. I admire people who can follow their dream and respect their priorities and ambitions. Gabriela Hearst is one of them, too, in the fashion industry. I also love the freshness and authenticity of Simon Porte Jacquemus and admire the multimedia artist Yto Barrada. She is passionate, an activist, and a wonderful person. Her work is strong and beautiful.
What are the next trends in contemporary jewelry that you want to explore?
I would like to revisit our men’s collection: Ginette loves Men. It was created as an extension of the women’s collection, and I love the idea of men wearing women’s pieces their own way. But I would also like to develop more of an offering for the men of today, who are quite different from 20 years ago back when we started. It is really important to me to keep an idea of fluidity between the women’s and men’s collections.
What are your goals as a designer for the next 20 years?
Make people dream more; make people happy.
Main image: Twenty charm bracelet in 18-karat rose gold. (Ginette NY)
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