Emeralds, tsavorites and other gems in this verdant shade are sprouting up in both designer and museum collections.

Stroll into the American Museum of Natural History in New York right now and you will find a welcome addition to the gallery: 44 pieces of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, each with verdant gemstones. The treasures have been grouped together in an exhibition titled “Garden of Green,” which runs until January 2024. It offers up a forest of malachite, peridot, chrysoprase, jade and — of course — emeralds.

While the exhibition is a reminder that green gems have been steadily in favor over the past century, it is also a prompt to make us realize how fresh they feel today. Case in point: The Las Vegas shows were brimming with green gemstones.

Van Cleef & Arpels Indian-inspired carved-emerald cuff in 18-karat golf with diamonds, circa 1971, on display at the American Museum of Natural History. (Van Cleef & Arpels)


Green’s connection with nature is obvious, but some jewelers believe the shade’s allure goes deeper. Sergio Antonini speaks of a “serene” gem that works with all skin tones, while Kimberly McDonald points out that it is the color of the heart chakra and “resonates with your energy beyond what your eye can see.” Others point to fashion trends — those that favor green, but also shades that work well with green; the list is long. On top of that, green is considered a symbol of luck, vitality and rebirth. This is a color brimming with positivity.

Jewelers report that fine emeralds are selling well in the US market, but for those seeking alternatives, there are plenty of choices. Tsavorite, demantoid garnet, tourmaline, jasper, Oregon sunstone, peacock pearls, and even green diamonds if you can find them.

Jane Taylor cirque color candy drop earrings with tourmalines in 14 karat gold. (Jane Taylor)
Jane Taylor Cirque Color Candy drop earrings with tourmalines in 14-karat gold. (Jane Taylor)
Jacquie Aiche green opaline bead necklace with an opal and diamonds in 18-karat yellow gold. (Jacquie Aiche)
Jacquie Aiche green opaline bead necklace with an opal and diamonds in 18-karat yellow gold. (Jacquie Aiche)
Joy BC Sekhmet ring in recycled 18-karat yellow gold, featuring a 3.86-carat, untreated Fuli gemstones peridot. (Joy BC)
Joy BC Sekhmet ring in recycled 18-karat yellow gold, featuring a 3.86-carat, untreated Fuli gemstones peridot. (Joy BC)
Marina B Tubogas choker in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds and a Muzo emerald. (Marina B)
Marina B Tubogas choker in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds and a Muzo emerald. (Marina B)
Marla Aaron Hatshepsut Lock bracelet in sterling silver and 14-karat gold, featuring a 1.71-carat emerald and diamonds. (Marla Aaron)
Marla Aaron Hatshepsut Lock bracelet in sterling silver and 14-karat gold, featuring a 1.71-carat emerald and diamonds. (Marla Aaron)
Nada Ghazal My Muse Cocoon Bougainvillea cuff in 18-karat gold with tsavorites and pink sapphires.  (Nada Ghazal)
Nada Ghazal My Muse Cocoon Bougainvillea cuff in 18-karat gold with tsavorites and pink sapphires. (Nada Ghazal)
Pomellato Giardini Verticali earrings with 52 green tourmalines and six violet-blue tanzanites in green titanium, cascading from diamond and 18-karat gold posts. (Pomellato)
Pomellato Giardini Verticali earrings with 52 green tourmalines and six violet-blue tanzanites in green titanium, cascading from diamond and 18-karat gold posts. (Pomellato)

Main image: Pomellato Giardini Verticali earrings on model. (Pomellato)

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