Inesita Capó and Äfet Burcu Salargil created their own brand to honor their two cultures and the bonds people have in common.
Jewelry has been always connected to feelings and emotions. That’s why romantic relationships have such a strong bond with jewels in our minds. But these ties also extend to other relationships we have, like friendships. Inesita Capó and Äfet Burcu Salargil know this well.
The owners of İTÄ met as undergraduates at university. They decided almost 20 years later to give birth to the brand, which symbolizes their journey as friends across time and cultures: Capó was born and raised in San Juan, Puerto Rico, while Salargil is from Istanbul.
The idea first came to Capó while she was visiting her friend in Turkey. “Burcu has an entrepreneurial spirit and a strong design background,” she says. “So the concept and stories really spoke to her, and she jumped at the challenge.”
They started the project in 2019, drawing on their two distinct cultures as well as their travels. Their craft incorporates mythical stories and ancestral hints. Most recently, their focus has been on creating modern interpretations of the ancient artifacts and icons of the Caribbean. The resulting pieces blend Caribbean beaches and Turkish bazaars.
The spirit of İTÄ’s designs lies in the experiences that connect people, and that commonality is visible across its collections. “We want people to see that bond and the joy of friendship in our designs,” says Capó, sitting down with Jewelry Connoisseur to share the pair’s own personal story as well as the brand’s.
How do you perceive the connection between jewelry and friendships?
Friendships are great love stories, too. They are chosen bonds. But we sometimes don’t express our appreciation or love for friends as well or as often as we do with family and/or significant others. And so, no matter how expressive we are, jewelry allows us to convey meaning without words. Building İTÄ together wasn’t just icing on the cake, it’s what makes this project possible and so special. We get to do this not just as colleagues, but as kindred spirits, and it has only strengthened that bond we first made when I called her 20 years ago.
Can you tell us more about the first time you met? How was that?
Cute story. We both met as undergraduates at Syracuse University [in New York]. You could say we were part of the “international” crowd. Greeks, Turks, Argentines, Costa Ricans, Lebanese, you name it. The Turks and Puerto Ricans always got along in a very organic, natural way. There’s something about our cultures that just meshes.
I had a Turkish boyfriend at the time, and we met briefly through him. We each thought the other was cool but never really got to know each other beyond that, until…that boyfriend broke up with me, and the first person I called, newly single and heartbroken, was Burcu. I had other friends, best friends I could have called, but for reasons I now understand, Burcu was the right person at that time.
We were pretty much inseparable [after that], loitering on Marshall Street [in Syracuse], buying jeans and makeup, drinking rum and cokes, and ultimately bringing our two worlds together. Then, when the time came to choose where to move after SU, we both decided on New York City and moved into a fourth-floor walk-up. A year later, our apartment was broken into, and guess what!? They took all our jewelry. Family heirlooms, precious gifts. All gone. Little did we know that 15 years later, we’d find a way to replace some of that loot.
What are the things your cultures share? What differentiates them?
Apart from a love of family and spices (and soap operas), both cultures share a passion for hospitality. Turks and Puerto Ricans always go above and beyond to make their visitors, whether they are friends or strangers, feel special. When it comes to jewelry, both cultures share a passion for unique jewelry that reflects individuality.
In terms of differentiators — color for sure. Turks like more subdued colors, versus the greens, oranges and blues that are popular in the Caribbean. Istanbulites definitely lead more hectic lives in general. The city itself is beautiful chaos. This is a striking contrast to our slower, more laid-back island life in the Caribbean. That’s why we want our pieces to be wearable above all else, with color and an interesting story behind it to brighten any day, no matter where you are in the world.
Do you find inspiration for your designs in certain places?
Our designs are mostly rooted in our cultures, [rather] than a place, but we do find inspiration in many of the places we’ve visited. Honoring our cultures, especially the Caribbean’s true heritage, was the real impetus and inspiration for the brand, though. There is so much we can learn from the original inhabitants of the islands, and it’s important they are not forgotten. Bringing it to life with a bit of our wandering spirits allows us to give it a more global appeal.
What are your favorite materials to create with?
Yellow gold, red garnets. We love their earthiness. So many of our designs have a connection to the earth. Red garnets have become a neutral for us, and that feeds in well to the wearability aspect of our collection. Our new collection is an homage to gold “as muse and canvas,” so we are excited to show it once it’s ready.
Since you also work on custom jewels, do you have any stories to share about a special piece you’ve made for a client?
Yes — two years ago, a lovely couple approached us to commission a custom piece to commemorate the birth of their first daughter. They were drawn to our storytelling approach to design and wanted the same for their piece, so we met over Zoom to discuss their family story, their values, and what they hoped and dreamed for their little girl. The result was truly a labor of love (and distance, since we never met in person). A piece we are so proud of, and we are so happy they love.
What have you learned from each other since you started this project?
We’ve learned to listen, to be patient with each other, to appreciate each other. Our friendship comes first, and we believe it’s evident in our designs. The brand is very much based on human connections and sharing, and we’ve been fortunate that we complement each other so well. We’ve learned to play to each other’s strengths, [and not to] act too hastily; slow, sustainable growth is okay. Because we each handle specific aspects of the business, we both have an obligation to each other to make it work. It has created camaraderie and taken our sisterhood to another level. A wise person once told me that appreciation is more valuable than love. It’s a startling concept when it first hits your brain, but as the person said, love is negotiable. Gratitude is not. And gratitude requires love from within.
What did you learn from the industry?
This is a tough industry. It can be relentless and requires a lot of energy, the ability to wear many hats, and constant reinvention. Like many designers, we are sort of one-woman shows on each side of the world, but we make it work. It’s important to have people you can trust, people who are willing to guide you around you. Defer to the seasoned experts, but push for innovation. It’s a constant negotiation, but you must be willing to put in the hours and have the patience to keep striving for improvement. Don’t settle…because it’s those little nuances that make all the difference.
What are the next challenges for İTÄ?
After a successful start in Puerto Rico and Istanbul, we are in the process of introducing the brand to the US and a more global market. We both hail and operate from homes that unfortunately see a lot of turmoil, so there is always a new surprise on the horizon. Getting our showrooms in San Juan and Istanbul ready and open is a focus.
Main image: Inesita Capó (right) and Äfet Burcu Salargil (left), jewelry designers and creators at İTÄ. (İTÄ)
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