This New Zealand-born jeweler creates contemporary jewels with an Old World feel at a London townhouse.
One of the interesting things about the jewelry industry is the many ways designers define their niche. London jeweler Jessica McCormack has created her place in the fine-jewelry world by creating what she calls modern heirlooms — contemporary luxury jewels with an Old World sensibility that are approachable and wearable. Some of the pieces can be combined — such as stackable rings — and in other cases individual items can be worn multiple ways.
She produces collections and does bespoke work, which again incorporates a personal twist with concepts such as her “Party Jacket.” McCormack will often take a client’s existing jewel — such as a solitaire, engagement or heirloom ring — and create a removable gem-specific “jacket” that surrounds the original gem. It provides another way to express oneself with the same jewel without altering it.
While the brand does have an e-commerce website and a strong social-media presence, the only place to buy her pieces in person is a five-story townhouse in a quiet corner of Mayfair that has become as much of the brand’s identity as the jewels. With this single location — filled with contemporary art, over-stuffed library shelves, family photos and other objects — she has attracted an international clientele. It’s also the place where McCormack jewels are designed and crafted and it’s where clients can work with the designer to create bespoke pieces.
Who is Jessica McCormack and how did you become such a big name among fine jewelers?
I’m a New Zealand-born jeweler who grew up surrounded by antiques, art, and jewelry as my father owned an auction house, so I’ve always loved the unusual and unique. When I moved to London to do an internship in Sotheby’s fine-jewelry department, my love affair with jewelry truly began, and it’s where I first met Michael Rosenfeld, my business partner. I was lucky to have had my pieces seen by Rihanna’s stylist very early on, so the impact of a celebrity wearing my work was momentous. Since then, I’ve built up a clientele of like-minded people who feel an emotional connection with my designs. Also, my bespoke offering is really quite distinct from other jewelers, with concepts like the Party Jackets.
How do you work with diamonds for your repurposed jewels and new jewels?
I design in different ways. Often I have an idea in mind, and I fit diamonds into it, and sometimes it’s retroactive, when I am inspired by a special diamond and the creation is centered on that stone. I draw everything by hand and we make everything by hand in the workshop at the townhouse. I love the intense human element to everything we do.
What is your latest collection about?
My latest collection is called “Gem Clip” and takes its name and inspiration from the first version of today’s paperclip, designed at the close of the 19th century and trademarked in 1904 as the Gem Clip. It’s a capsule collection comprising of a few pieces: a necklace, a bracelet and a pair of earrings, all with 18-karat rose gold links and diamond pavé rondelles.
I am about to release a new collection at the beginning of September called Livewire. It is inspired by the Buzzwire games of old, and pays homage to the structures seen at funfairs, from Helter-Skelter and Loop-the-Loop rides to the aforementioned ‘Beat The Buzzer’ game. The collection brings together angular loops with softened edges and on many pieces the placement of diamonds gives the illusion that they are floating on metal.
Is there something typically Londoner in your creations?
British craftsmanship is definitely close to my heart, and one of my signature styles is the Georgian cut-down setting, which is quite different to the modern cut-down setting most jewelers use today. I really wanted to revive the Georgian technique, which is a style of setting where the diamond is encased in a button shape and the metal is set around the edge of the diamond to keep it secure. Traditionally this would have been done in silver.
Another technique the Georgians were known for was layering metals, backing silver with yellow gold to prevent the silver from tarnishing and marking the wearer’s clothing. I recreate this in a lot of my designs now for purely aesthetic reasons, as it adds warmth and softness and a certain weight to the jewel. Also, this technique can only be done by hand, making each piece unique.
Who are your clients?
We have clients all over the globe, sometimes ones who fly thousands of miles to visit the beautiful townhouse in Mayfair. During the past few months this has not been able to happen, of course, so we have had to rely on virtual appointments and our amazing website.
How do you see the current desire for diamond jewelry?
The desire for diamonds never diminishes, however, we have seen a surge in demand for bespoke designs. This is possibly because our clients have been at home thinking about their jewelry collections and inherited gems, and have had more time to think about what they want to do with them.
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