Ming Lampson, who has a showroom in Notting Hill in central London, creates jewelry inspired by the decorative arts of the Far East and the traditions of craftsmanship.
How did you get started in the industry?
At the age of 17 I was given a bag of gemstone beads as repayment for a debt. At the time I was extremely disappointed to be given the beads over cash, but these stones started me off on an obsessive jewelry journey. I wove the beads into necklaces, which I sold from a stall in Galway market. They sold brilliantly, in large part due to my naivety as to the quality and value of the stones. I priced the necklaces according to how long they had taken me to make rather than what the beads were worth. As I knew the beads came from India, I decided to travel there to purchase more. As soon as I arrived in Jaipur everything changed. I entered into a world of faceted and cabochon gemstones and jewelry making. I ended up staying for two and a half years sorting stones for dealers and learning to make jewelry.
When I returned to London, I studied for a jewelry diploma at Sir John Cass, London Guildhall University. I also studied Gemology at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and gained a diamond diploma at the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A). I have been making jewelry by hand in London ever since.
How have you seen your creations evolve in the past 20 years?
On a technical level my knowledge and experience has increased every year. What hasn’t changed is my desire to innovate and experiment. The benefit of doing bespoke private commissions for years is that everything you make is new. I like to challenge myself to make something difficult, something different from anything I have made before, because that is where I learn the most. Things often go wrong when you are trying experimental stuff for the first time but in the end the most challenging pieces are always the jewels that I am most proud of, because they push the most boundaries.
What jewels would you describe as iconic of your style?
English with an injection of Asia, as I spent my early years in Hong Kong and Thailand, with a dose of rebellious spirit. In a way that is how my pieces are: classic with a Far Eastern twist and a bit of punk.
What is so special about creating bespoke jewelry?
With a bespoke jewel I am trying to capture the spirit of a client in a piece. It is not only the jewel I am trying to figure out, it is also the person. It is essential to capture something of the wearer in what I am making.
Which designers do you admire?
I love Louis Cartier – he designed such a wide variety of work, always perfectly balanced, stylish and beautiful. Viren Bhagat, because everything he makes is exquisite, and JAR, because he inspires me to be brave.
What inspires you about the Far East and how did it translate into your collections?
I am very inspired by the decorative arts of the Far East and the traditions and reverence towards craftsmanship. I grew up surrounded by art and furniture from the region. I think there is certain nostalgia about my interest, but also my jewelry is extremely symbolic and a lot of the artistic traditions in Asia are rooted in symbolism.
What other sources of inspiration do you have?
Occasionally a gemstone will be a source of inspiration, its color or unusual cut. Art, Architecture, nature can all influence a theme or collection. The works of Itchiku Kubota, Shinto architecture, and ancient textiles have played a part in recent pieces.
Are you working on a new collection?
Yes, it is a collection that explores the idea of secrets.
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