The New York-based jewelry designer proves that these gems are not just for traditional outfits.
Three years ago, Anne Baker‘s destiny would shift course when she looked around her at a party and realized that the pieces she liked were far from common.
She set herself a challenge to make a jewel that she liked — and sell it. Her first attempt was in November 2019 with a string of freshwater pearls adorned with a gold letter A. The enquiries flooded in immediately, and the business — and what she would later call her Nina Letters collection — was born.
Baker’s previous experience in fashion helped shape the jewelry designer she is today, though she describes jewelry as quite “anti-fashion.” Rather than producing multiple seasonal collections a year, the designer, who is originally from California, instead works on her pieces slowly with a view that they should remain relevant for decades.
Much of Baker’s jewelry centers on pearls. In her creations, she celebrates these natural treasures by setting them in feminine designs that weave, as she describes it, a modern narrative about pearl jewelry. Often combined with diamonds, these jewels are designed to be comfortable and practical enough to be worn every day by women with active lifestyles.
The pearls Baker selects for her designs come from all over the world, including pearling hot spots Myanmar, Indonesia and northern Australia. The jewelry collections — including a line of pearl engagement rings — are pleasing contradictions: classic yet contemporary; wearable but also edgy. Each jewel has been made with impeccable attention to detail and craftsmanship by Baker’s team of artisans and bench jewelers who work in the heart of Manhattan. We sat down with the jewelry expert to learn more about her passion for pearls.
What makes pearls so special?
No two pearls are the same, and the eye will never tire of looking at them. Pearls are glowing orbs, and I love how they soften everything around them and spread such a beautiful, diffused glow. They are a true treasure. Even when cultured, the very process of how pearls come to be, in a living mollusk from an irritant, as a form of protection, is very symbolic and beautiful. It’s very special and notable that today pearls and pearl farming support a clean ecosystem.
What are your most iconic creations?
It’s hard for me to answer that. I think perhaps it is now my Signature strand that is not made from pearls but instead inspired by them.
What factors should customers consider when choosing pearl jewelry?
Most importantly, lifestyle [and] how and where you want to wear pearl jewelry. If [you are] hard on your jewels, I would suggest pearl earrings to start. Also, color. Pearls come in different tones; it’s best to see which colors suit you most against your skin tone.
Which other gemstones would you like to use in your designs?
I would really like to do some pieces with melo melo and conch pearls. Both are exceptionally rare special and beautiful. Specifically making an effort to source diamonds from Australia, Canada, and Botswana, Africa. Diamonds have been a significant integral part of the collection from the beginning. I will forever be inspired by the combination of diamonds with pearls, the contrast and play in hard and soft, both in light and substance. The more I design, I realize it is with great privilege, and any way I can support an ethical supply chain, I will.
Which other contemporary artists and fashion designers do you admire?
Oh, there are many. For clear reasons, I adore the work of [French artist] Jean-Michel Othoniel. Also, the sculptures of [Swiss-born] Not Vital and [British-Indian sculptor] Anish Kapoor. [Italian] Francesco Clemente is a personal favorite contemporary artist. I have recently started collecting works from [painters] Tursic & Mille. Just this year, [I] started following [Canadian painter] Anna Weyant’s work. Absolutely love what she is doing. Feels old-world masterly while also contemporary, fresh and fun. For fashion, I tend to gravitate to classic neutrals with a twist, and I love what Catherine Holstein is doing with [her New York women’s wear brand] Khaite. I will forever be inspired by Coco Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel.
What are you currently working on? Can you tell us about future collections?
I am further developing my Signature strand into a whole collection. I have been wearing it on repeat. Also, I just developed a companion pearl ring to wear with the Oura smart ring; [I’m] excited about that. My father told me years ago I should reach out to design something for them, and then over a year later, when I saw a most fabulous chic friend wearing an Oura ring at lunch, I realized there’s a need to be able to dress it up. I decided it would be most versatile and practical to design a companion ring that one can wear with or without the Oura ring.
What would you say to yourself if you could go back a few years to that moment when you shifted to jewelry? Which advice would you give to others in the same situation?
To believe in yourself, your voice, and your vision and to know your strengths and limitations. One can’t be for everyone. Realizing that is important.
Main image: Anne Baker, jewelry designer. (Anne Baker)
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