The iconic jeweler and sculptor reflects on 50 years of creating, but he promises there’s more to come.

Wallace Chan spoke about his goal of creating art that will live for generations, if not centuries, during a lecture at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum last month.

He based the theme of his presentation on the traditional Chinese saying, “everything, big or small, is infinite.”

“In the context of my work, this idea serves as a foundation for exploring the interconnectedness of big and small scales, from monumental sculptures to jewelry,” Chan said. “These scales reflect my understanding of existence and creativity.”

The Beauty of Greatness brooch. (Wallace Chan)
The Beauty of Greatness brooch. (Wallace Chan)

Depth in darkness
He gave several examples of how this expression has entered into his work, which included one of his latest pieces, the Legend of the Color Black. The jewel is centered with a 312.24-carat black diamond, one of the largest known faceted black diamonds in the world. He received the gem from a collector and was faced with the challenge of how best to present it.

He chose to create an unusual shoulder brooch made of multicolored titanium and his proprietary unbreakable porcelain that surrounds the gem as if it is sitting within a throne. A significant portion of the jewel is paved with sapphires and diamonds. He used a large, clear crystal beneath the black diamond as a counterbalance.

“With the center stone weighing over 320 carats, it is a challenge to create ergonomic comfort, wearability, and at the same time, a creation that justifies the role and existence of the stone,” he revealed, speaking about building the jewel’s structure. “No amount of computing and calculation will achieve this without repeated hands-on experiment. It is also important to note that without the lightweight of titanium and the strength and smoothness of ‘Wallace Chan Porcelain,’ it would not have worked.”

Artistically, the piece combined his fascination with human DNA and neurons with his interpretation of the darkness of a black diamond. “A black diamond is always mysterious,” he said. “You try to look into it, but it is just all black. There is no light. Yet it comes with so much depth, as if it contained nothing and everything.”

The Legend of the Color Black is “inspired by the very essence of this neural symphony,” he told the audience. “In its heart lies the deconstructed neuron, an ode to the building blocks of thought and understanding. The synapses, acting as bridges of knowledge, come to life as the core of the creation, mirroring the dynamic interplay of neurons in the brain.”

Shoulder brooch and Sculpture Legend of the Color Black. (Wallace Chan)
Shoulder brooch and Sculpture Legend of the Color Black. (Wallace Chan)

Legacy for the ages
The lecture was part of a weeklong exhibition of Chan’s jewels and large titanium sculptures at the Christie’s office in London, which ended September 10. The show consisted of more than 150 jewels and titanium sculptures, including about 20 new pieces. It represented 50 years of works by Chan. The artist also designed and built the display cases and designed the space for the exhibition.

While the exhibition represents Chan’s work over a long period, in a private interview, he was not willing to call it a retrospective, because he remains active as a creator.

“I will only call it a retrospective when I [have] stopped creating,” he said. “Even if it is the result of five decades of work. I’m still creating and I’m still coming up with new ideas and new materials and new creations.”

He hopes he will still be able to work for another 50 years, he told the audience at the museum. But he wants his legacy to last longer.

“I am working on a timeline much, much longer than what this body of flesh and blood promises,” he proclaimed. “When I am no longer here on this earth, my works will continue to exist. My work transcends not only my reality, but also my life and my time.”

The Joy of Life brooch. (Wallace Chan)
The Joy of Life brooch. (Wallace Chan)

Main image: Wallace Chan speaking at the Victoria & Albert Museum. (Anthony DeMarco)

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