Ancient Meets Modern: Susan Highsmith

This independent designer pairs rose-cut diamonds with yellow gold, drawing on time-honored techniques to create contemporary bridal and everyday jewelry.

Susan Highsmith first encountered rose-cut diamonds several years ago, when contemplating which type of stone would best complement one of her ring designs.

“A friend happened to have a rose cut that fit the bezel perfectly. That was it — I knew these were the diamonds I would work with going forward, [as] they best complemented my aesthetic,” recalls the New York-based designer.

Since then, her signature style has focused on rose-cut diamonds and the textural interest of her hand-carved gold. Bold elements — inspired by antique and ancient jewelry and architecture — are juxtaposed with the subtleties of diamonds once worn in candlelight.

Highsmith uses 14- and 18-karat yellow gold to give retailers and collectors different price options. “When working with the diamonds, I strategically place them in the design and then create a landscape around them. I prefer to start out with a general idea and design from an improvisational place while aiming to find a balance between the diamonds and gold,” she explains.

Highsmith originally began studying the ancient technique of lost-wax casting in 2009. Over the years, she has worked many hours at her bench, learning new techniques while fine-tuning her aesthetic. “I continue to sell my collection while consistently experimenting with new designs that evoke bygone time periods,” she says.

She often adds softly colored stones to the mix and enjoys the play of hues, a feminine palette of stones alongside the rose-cut diamonds and yellow gold, and how they all meld together. “My newest collection features a richer color palette of dreamy-looking stones in bolder shapes. These pieces are influenced by elements such as arches and shield shapes and architectural elements and details,” she shares.

She has added commission work to her repertoire, always within her design sensibility. “Usually, clients buy one of my production pieces and then ask me to design something special for them or someone they are gifting,” Highsmith notes. “It’s always an honor when retailers and their customers have a personal connection to what I design.”

Main image: A portrait of jewelry designer Susan Highsmith. (Susan Highsmith)