Talismans, stackables and yellow gold stood out at the trade fair’s recent New York edition, say retailers.
The twice-yearly Melee the Show in New York has become a hot-ticket locale for jewelers, a place where retailers can meet with emerging and independent designers in a comfortable, easily navigable, open-air venue. The trade fair, which designers Lauren Wolf and Rebecca Overmann launched in 2017, featured approximately 100 talents at its latest edition in August.
“The appeal for retailers is the caliber of independents, the ability to work more collaboratively with those they already carry, [and the chance to] discover new talents and view the trends in a relaxed, welcoming environment,” says Wolf. “For the designers, the popularity of the show is that they really get to be seen by the stores that are best suited to them.”
Here, three retailers share the trends they spotted at the event, as well as their favorite designers and hot sellers for the holiday season.
Laura Kitsos, president and head designer, Gem Jewelry Boutique, Oak Park, Illinois
“Melee is the most necessary show for me to attend [during] the year. The space allows you to work with existing customers and scope out new [ones] at your own pace. This year, I was excited to see some new additions, including Elisabeth Bell, Petite Baleine and White Space. Celine Daoust’s selection was better than ever this August. I ordered some gorgeous rose-cut diamond pieces and a labradorite pendant inset with diamonds forming a moon and star motif. As for trends and hot sellers for the holidays, I saw a continuation of yellow gold chains, color (predominantly pinks and greens), enamel, and symbolic jewelry with snakes, celestial motifs, numerology and other talismanic symbolism. I have always carried jewelry with a protective or lucky meaning behind it, since it’s what I would be drawn to most as a consumer. There were a lot of one-of-a-kind pieces available from most designers I purchased. That’s always an important option when you are carrying independents who are online and in other stores; it helps to differentiate your shop.”
Ellen Hertz, owner, Max’s, Twin Cities, Minnesota
“Shopping this show is always exciting for me, as I get to work with my regular vendors and often bring in a few new designers. Nothing is rushed, and the show is set up so you can map out your appointments easily. I picked up two new designers: Celine Daoust and Ellis Mhairi Cameron. The trends continue to evolve rather than be revolutionary, which is a plus [because it enables] customers to catch on…. A neck statement will continue to be important throughout the holiday. Layering is still the thing — bold chains with various-sized pendants layered on top of each other, or delicate chains more ‘neatly’ graduated. Stacking rings and earrings all the way up…were still strong. Jewelry that tells a story is still top of the list of trends: evil eyes, hamsas, skeletons, words and quotes. For the past several years, as this area continues to grow, customers are drawn to symbolism as a way of identifying who they are.”
Paul Schneider, co-owner, Twist, Portland, Oregon
“This is the show we [attend] to see those we do well with and spend time going over their new selections, since we work with so many of the designers. Every now and then, if we see a new designer to whom we are drawn, we will pick them up. We don’t shop trends, but there is a general feeling toward gold chains, charms, and colored stones — no big change from the past two years, but they are a good cultural barometer. As for the hot sellers — also an evolution —yellow and high-karat gold, all styles of charms, emeralds and rubies in gemstones, and pieces that will mix well with what is already in a customer’s jewelry collection, like adding a heavier gold chain to a classic handed-down strand of pearls. Our favorites at the show that we carry consistently include Disa Allsopp London, which are all one-of-a-kind pieces; Mallary Marks, a brilliant colorist who can mix an unconventional palette of gemstones into one piece; and TenThousandThings, iconic jewelers who play to the more mature customers. If you bring in anything from these three, you are sure to have jewels that are out the door quickly for the holiday.”
Main image: Ellis Mhairi Cameron Legacy diamond rings in 14-karat gold. (Ellis Mhairi Cameron)
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