Luxury retailers share their best finds from the recent jewelry show.
Colored gemstones and gold chains may be the biggest takeaways from the trend-setting Couture show, which ran from May 30 to June 2 at the Wynn Las Vegas. So say the top-end retailers who walked (and shopped) the show. From gemstone beads, rose-cut gems, and ear climbers to enamel and thick chains, three fashion-forward merchants offer some insight into what will appear in their showcases come fall.
Elissa Schneider: Owner, Lissa Fine Jewelry (New York)
“There was a lot of colored-stone jewelry, including a Y necklace from Marie Lichtenberg with enamel that was really cool. Savolinna had emerald jewelry, and Susana Martins had great ear cuffs, bracelets, and great new earring styles, some with ceramic inlay. Long pendants are hot again, and so are thick gold chains. For fall, we expect a lot of heavy gold to be in style. Antonio Papini had thick chains, and I plan on making them come back in style. Charm necklaces will still be a big look for fall. They are easy to wear, and people love and collect them at this point. Tennis necklaces, too, in diamonds and colored stones, will be strong. We like tennis necklaces in emeralds, and blue sapphires and black diamonds. And Fern Freeman had great new pieces — oversize earrings in gold. She always has something great.”
Joanne Teichman: Owner, Ylang23 (Dallas, Texas)
“Beads and gemstones were exciting at Couture. Everyone is upping their color game. I liked beaded necklaces from Jacquie Aiche, Sydney Evan, and Ileana Makri, and L’atelier Nawbar also had a lot of colored stones. Hot sellers for the holidays are always different treatments in diamonds. Suzanne Kalan had so much newness beyond her Fireworks collection, and I think these will be strong for the holidays. Inlay from Retrouvai is also one of our favorites. I like Jade Ruzzo — this was her first Couture, and her designs are just beautiful. She had a diamond fringe line called Tennessee, and cabochon-cut stackables in softer color palettes. Azlee also had a beautiful collection, and we love Lizzie Mandler’s gold and diamond line. We were extremely happy and surprised by so much newness, and we’ll be happy campers come the holiday season.”
Andrea Riso: Owner, Talisman Collection (El Dorado Hills, California)
“Ear climbers are back; I thought they went away. And pearls are still hot — not so much as strands, but in jewelry. Rose cuts are reappearing in more conservative pieces of jewelry like hoops, diamond engagement rings, and pendants. Meredith Young is a good example; she has ear climbers with rose cuts and brilliants mixed. Eden Presley’s colored-stone production is well done, and [its founder and designer, Gwen Myers,] is talented. For the holidays, I see ombré pieces, bracelets, unusual links, and climbers doing well. In enamel, I feel that Lord Jewelry has more timeless offerings and is harder for others to knock off. Lisa Nik took her big-stone looks and made delicate jewelry. She has mirror-cut and asymmetrical cuts that no one else is doing. Nikos Koulis is one of the most important designers of our generation. He brought back the black onyx, emerald and diamond look that has since been copied for years. And another standout is Suzy Landa’s new chains. I went weak when I saw them! There is nothing else like them.”
Main image: Lizzie Mandler 18-karat gold five-row Cleo ring with an oval white diamond in the center. (Lizzie Mandler)
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